Fusible applique - how to not fray the ends?
09-13-2010, 11:04 AM
#31
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Originally Posted by LucyInTheSky
Thank you all for letting me know your methods and you needle size!
I was planning on fusing on the applique to the borders (just in the borders, center is pieced), quilting the center and then quilting the applique border. So I would have the satin stitch pattern showing up on the back. Is there a reason I wouldn't want to do that? Everyone's talking about stabilizer, and I *think* I wouldn't need stabilizer then, but not sure...
thanks!
I was planning on fusing on the applique to the borders (just in the borders, center is pieced), quilting the center and then quilting the applique border. So I would have the satin stitch pattern showing up on the back. Is there a reason I wouldn't want to do that? Everyone's talking about stabilizer, and I *think* I wouldn't need stabilizer then, but not sure...
thanks!
When you sew around each of the appliques, you are going to be spinning the quilt around and around. This may not be very easy, depending on the size of your quilt, and the size of your machines throat.
You may find it easier to stitch around the appliques before you attach the borders.
Just something to think about :D:D:D
09-13-2010, 08:07 PM
#32
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Originally Posted by amma
Originally Posted by LucyInTheSky
Thank you all for letting me know your methods and you needle size!
I was planning on fusing on the applique to the borders (just in the borders, center is pieced), quilting the center and then quilting the applique border. So I would have the satin stitch pattern showing up on the back. Is there a reason I wouldn't want to do that? Everyone's talking about stabilizer, and I *think* I wouldn't need stabilizer then, but not sure...
thanks!
I was planning on fusing on the applique to the borders (just in the borders, center is pieced), quilting the center and then quilting the applique border. So I would have the satin stitch pattern showing up on the back. Is there a reason I wouldn't want to do that? Everyone's talking about stabilizer, and I *think* I wouldn't need stabilizer then, but not sure...
thanks!
When you sew around each of the appliques, you are going to be spinning the quilt around and around. This may not be very easy, depending on the size of your quilt, and the size of your machines throat.
You may find it easier to stitch around the appliques before you attach the borders.
Just something to think about :D:D:D
09-13-2010, 08:14 PM
#33
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Join Date: Apr 2010
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Originally Posted by ckcowl
i thin sharp NEW needle is necessary, also a stablizer will really help keep your project from fraying or puckering while you stitch. you can use a removeable stablizer or one that can stay right in but it really makes a huge difference, especially for applique projects like Mickena Ryan patterns. starch will not help because fusable has trouble sticking to the fabric if it has been starched, it is important to pre-wash and make sure the sizing and any starch is removed from the fabric before attaching the fusable.
09-14-2010, 04:00 AM
#35
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I also trace the pieces onto Wonder Under (it is cheaper than Steam A Seam) then fuse and cut out. I use batiks because the tighter weaves helps prevent fraying. The bulk of the satin stitch is on the applique and I use 30 wt. thread for a bit smoother stitch. The narrower your stitch the more wobbles will show. The tear away stabilizer that I use is the wall liner used before wallpapering uneven surfaces. You can also satin stitch the "inside" of the applique on the stabilizer, tear away the stabilizer and applique the edges to the background with stabilizer behind it. On large pieces I will protect them with freezer paper ironed on until ready to stitch to the background. The eyes below were stitched separately as was the nose before stitching to the face. (Front and back shot of the eyes, stabilizer removed.)
09-14-2010, 04:32 AM
#36
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Location: Wisconsin
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Make sure you ironed it onto your base fabric, if you did, there would be no reason for it to be loose and fray. I start machine applique by dropping the needle into the fabric at the outer edge, lower the foot and sew away with the blind stitch or buttonhole stitch. Check on scrap fabric to be sure the next movement of the needle goes into the applique and not into space.
Carol J.
Carol J.
09-14-2010, 04:38 AM
#37
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Originally Posted by LucyInTheSky
Originally Posted by jayelee
I was taught to sew with the right side of the stitch just off the edge of the fabric I don't know if that helps but I use heat and bond light and dont have this problem
09-14-2010, 04:41 AM
#38
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Originally Posted by LucyInTheSky
I had done some fusible applique in the past. I used Steam-a-seam Lite 2, I believe. When I went to do the stitching on the side, it completely mangled the fabric. I was doing the zigzag stitch, trying to get it halfway on the fabric and halfway on the background. I also tried straight stitching on the inside, but whatever I did, the edge fabric was fraying like crazy and it just looked so unfinished and unpolished. I dislike hand applique since it takes so long but the edges look so beautiful and clean. I was using cotton fabric onto muslin and cotton. Any suggestions for how to make that happier?? Thanks!
09-14-2010, 05:19 AM
#39
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You have received great help here from others, already. I use Steam a Seam 2 and a mixture it buttonhole stitch and zizzag depending on the piece and how I want it to look. When using the zigzag - I use a medium tear away stabilizer sold for Machine Embroidery. One other thing that I do - I use the Havel 7 in Serrated Applique scissors - the cut it clean and precise. The edge has no threads hanging out.
09-14-2010, 05:55 AM
#40
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Originally Posted by applique
I also trace the pieces onto Wonder Under (it is cheaper than Steam A Seam) then fuse and cut out. I use batiks because the tighter weaves helps prevent fraying. The bulk of the satin stitch is on the applique and I use 30 wt. thread for a bit smoother stitch. The narrower your stitch the more wobbles will show. The tear away stabilizer that I use is the wall liner used before wallpapering uneven surfaces. You can also satin stitch the "inside" of the applique on the stabilizer, tear away the stabilizer and applique the edges to the background with stabilizer behind it. On large pieces I will protect them with freezer paper ironed on until ready to stitch to the background. The eyes below were stitched separately as was the nose before stitching to the face. (Front and back shot of the eyes, stabilizer removed.)
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