Newbies challenge
10-21-2010, 04:50 AM
#1171
Junior Member
Join Date: Apr 2010
Location: Leesburg, Florida
Posts: 158
The reason I was asking about Left or Right handed is because I am Left-handed and I do some things a little differently than Right-handed quilters. I would be perfectly willing to pass on what I know about piecing, rotary cutting, choosing fabric, paper piecing (I was taught by Carol Doak in person), binding, and anything else I can pick my brain to teach. I have a Brother Quattro Innovis 6000D which sews, embroiders, quilts, and crafts. If anyone out there is left-handed or thinks we can work around it, please PM me (send me a Private Message by clicking on my name and choosing 'Send Private Message'. Then keep an eye on your area, you will get a yellow notice that you have a 'Private Message' when I answer you.
10-21-2010, 08:29 AM
#1172
Member
Join Date: Oct 2010
Location: So. California
Posts: 14
I'm not a veteran of this site but I've been quilting for 11 years and I also do longarm quilting, so I can help with that too.
Currently I'm taking a class "Baltimore Christmas" by Pearl Periera, taught by Susan Axelrod.
I'd be willing to help somebody out. One thing I really can't do very well is machine quilting on my DSM.
Currently I'm taking a class "Baltimore Christmas" by Pearl Periera, taught by Susan Axelrod.
I'd be willing to help somebody out. One thing I really can't do very well is machine quilting on my DSM.
10-21-2010, 12:58 PM
#1173
Super Member
Join Date: Oct 2010
Location: Oklahoma
Posts: 1,272
i WILL BE MACHINE QUILTING TABLE RUNNERS TOMORROW FOR XMAS PRESENTS. FIRST TIME TO MQ IN ABOUT 25 YEARS---WITH JUST A REGULAR MACHINE. So, if y'all hear screaming from Oklahoma, you know it went wrong!
Do not have a long-arm. I do not have a problem with mitering, etc. also hand quilt and draft blocks, etc. I would be happy to "adopt" someone, but am NOT always online every day..
Just in the beginning stages of an "art" wall-hanging.I just finished a wall hanging for my daughter----reversible hand quilted---about 400 hours or!
Do not have a long-arm. I do not have a problem with mitering, etc. also hand quilt and draft blocks, etc. I would be happy to "adopt" someone, but am NOT always online every day..
Just in the beginning stages of an "art" wall-hanging.I just finished a wall hanging for my daughter----reversible hand quilted---about 400 hours or!
10-21-2010, 10:04 PM
#1175
Senior Member
Join Date: Oct 2010
Location: Virginia
Posts: 942
I am not a newbie - but would love some advice on paper piecing. I've been quilting on and off for 23 years - have finished multiple lap/baby quilts and table runners. I'm currently working on a King bedquilt and a few smaller projects. A few years back I purchased a Judy Neimaier(sp) paper piecing star pattern. It has no extra pieces - just enough for the quilt - so I have been very hesitant to try it. I've been watching for a class locally but no luck there. Any advice would be helpful. The only experience I have with this is a pinwheel pattern I tried from Love of Quilting.
10-21-2010, 10:25 PM
#1176
Junior Member
Join Date: Oct 2010
Location: Washburn, North Dakota
Posts: 257
Here is a Paper Piecing tutorial link, I like tutorials, you can 'see' how it's done, not just instructions. Hope this helps. I'm just learning PP myself, and the main point, keeping fabrics strait to each 'piece', so I started coloring in my pattern so I pick up the right color fabric each time, saves mistakes. Then I also hold it up to a window to 'see' through the paper to aliegn the fabric, remembering to put the fabric below the stitch line, when you turn it over and iron it 'right' it will be in the right place. Always follow each piece in numerical order, as it gets the pattern right, out of order, big mistakes. Then I use a 1/4" add on ruler before I iron, place it along the seam, trim off excess, then press to the right direction. Do not remove the paper at the end until you've trimmed around the block following the pattern as guide. If you keep your stitch length short, the paper perferates easier for tearing off at the end. Hope these tips help. Debbie D
10-21-2010, 10:26 PM
#1177
Junior Member
Join Date: Oct 2010
Location: Washburn, North Dakota
Posts: 257
10-23-2010, 10:12 AM
#1179
Junior Member
Join Date: Oct 2010
Location: Washburn, North Dakota
Posts: 257
Information to Newbie's and seasoned quilters. I found this interesting, an article in an enews letter. About stitches per inch... Debbie
Quoted:
As with so many aspects of quilting, the way we measure our stitches can sometimes vary. Some quilters count the stitches visible on the top side of the quilt. Other quilters count the stitches from both the top and bottom.
As a general rule, quilters are referring to the number of stitches per inch on the quilt top. So, when discussing stitch size with other quilters, be sure they clarify the process they use to avoid confusion.
Quilters measure their stitches by the inch. So, you will often hear quilters talk about how many stitches per inch they strive for in their quilting projects.
Here’s the kicker – they may vary the stitches per inch they strive for based on each individual project. So, a quilt top that is going to be more heavily quilted may end up with more stitches per inch than one that is rather lightly quilted.
As a general rule, hand quilters tend to lean toward 6 to 8 stitches per inch (counted on the top side of the quilt, not both sides).
Machine quilters typically strive for 10 to 12 stitches per inch. Why the difference? With hand quilting you have to accommodate for the fact that you are human.
While any experienced quilter could create 10 to 12 stitches by hand, think how tiny those would be…and how much strain it would put on the quilter’s fingers and wrists. It’s just not quite as practical as 6 to 8 stitches.
Now, there may be hand quilters out there who get 10 to 12 per inch, but let’s face it. It’s easier to program a machine to do it.
If you are a beginner, make a few quilt sandwiches on which to practice your stitches per inch. These don’t have to be anything fancy.
A couple of layers of scrap fabric and some batting are all it takes. If possible, use at least one solid piece of fabric for your practice piece.
This will allow you to more closely examine your stitches. Prints might hide them. You want to be able to see any and all imperfection when you practice.
With your hand sewing supplies or your machine, run some test stitches on your practice quilt sandwich. Lay your ruler beside the stitches to see how many per inch you have done.
Another way to do this is to mark your fabric in one inch increments. This is especially helpful when practicing hand stitching. Stitch between the lines until you get the hang of it.
What happens if your stitch count doesn’t quite make it? That depends a great deal on the loft (thickness) of the batting.
Some batting, like polyester, doesn’t separate much. So, fewer stitches won’t matter. Your batting will stay together inside your quilt for a long time. Natural fibers like cotton or wool, however, require heavier quilting to keep them in place as they are sandwich in the middle of your quilt.
Without enough stitches, the natural fibers of cotton or wool batting can eventually separate inside your quilt and become very lumpy. Even so, bonded batting or batting with a scrim will prevent that separation, although it is more difficult to hand quilt.
In addition to the number of stitches you sew into an inch of fabric, you really also need to work on the consistency of the length of your stitches.
Work to make them straight – which sounds easier than it is sometimes. Make them evenly spaced and make them each the same length.
This isn’t so much of an issue for machine quilters because you set your stitch length and width between on your machine.
Hand quilters, however, really need to work to get a grasp of the technique. The good news is that once you get the hang of it, it’s with you forever!
Quoted:
As with so many aspects of quilting, the way we measure our stitches can sometimes vary. Some quilters count the stitches visible on the top side of the quilt. Other quilters count the stitches from both the top and bottom.
As a general rule, quilters are referring to the number of stitches per inch on the quilt top. So, when discussing stitch size with other quilters, be sure they clarify the process they use to avoid confusion.
Quilters measure their stitches by the inch. So, you will often hear quilters talk about how many stitches per inch they strive for in their quilting projects.
Here’s the kicker – they may vary the stitches per inch they strive for based on each individual project. So, a quilt top that is going to be more heavily quilted may end up with more stitches per inch than one that is rather lightly quilted.
As a general rule, hand quilters tend to lean toward 6 to 8 stitches per inch (counted on the top side of the quilt, not both sides).
Machine quilters typically strive for 10 to 12 stitches per inch. Why the difference? With hand quilting you have to accommodate for the fact that you are human.
While any experienced quilter could create 10 to 12 stitches by hand, think how tiny those would be…and how much strain it would put on the quilter’s fingers and wrists. It’s just not quite as practical as 6 to 8 stitches.
Now, there may be hand quilters out there who get 10 to 12 per inch, but let’s face it. It’s easier to program a machine to do it.
If you are a beginner, make a few quilt sandwiches on which to practice your stitches per inch. These don’t have to be anything fancy.
A couple of layers of scrap fabric and some batting are all it takes. If possible, use at least one solid piece of fabric for your practice piece.
This will allow you to more closely examine your stitches. Prints might hide them. You want to be able to see any and all imperfection when you practice.
With your hand sewing supplies or your machine, run some test stitches on your practice quilt sandwich. Lay your ruler beside the stitches to see how many per inch you have done.
Another way to do this is to mark your fabric in one inch increments. This is especially helpful when practicing hand stitching. Stitch between the lines until you get the hang of it.
What happens if your stitch count doesn’t quite make it? That depends a great deal on the loft (thickness) of the batting.
Some batting, like polyester, doesn’t separate much. So, fewer stitches won’t matter. Your batting will stay together inside your quilt for a long time. Natural fibers like cotton or wool, however, require heavier quilting to keep them in place as they are sandwich in the middle of your quilt.
Without enough stitches, the natural fibers of cotton or wool batting can eventually separate inside your quilt and become very lumpy. Even so, bonded batting or batting with a scrim will prevent that separation, although it is more difficult to hand quilt.
In addition to the number of stitches you sew into an inch of fabric, you really also need to work on the consistency of the length of your stitches.
Work to make them straight – which sounds easier than it is sometimes. Make them evenly spaced and make them each the same length.
This isn’t so much of an issue for machine quilters because you set your stitch length and width between on your machine.
Hand quilters, however, really need to work to get a grasp of the technique. The good news is that once you get the hang of it, it’s with you forever!
10-24-2010, 12:05 AM
#1180
Member
Join Date: Oct 2010
Posts: 1
I have just registered to this site and WOULD LOVE SOMEONE TO TEACH ME TO QUILT......Help!!!!
j in Tx
[email protected]
j in Tx
[email protected]
Thread
Thread Starter
Forum
Replies
Last Post
creativeladysd
Introduce Yourself
23
05-13-2011 03:30 PM
