Jabatrom

Wow, you are so good at researching this stuff. I found the serial number under the motor (LN606744). Also, there were other markings that were hand written. g63 on the inside wood case. NPEJ (J is partially off, but it looks like it could be a J) on the inside front rim of the machine head. The drawn picture on the website looks like my machine and since it has an LN serial # it fits. However, mine is a crinkle finish. Would they make different finishes for the same model? Somebody posted that they thought it was not original.
[ATTACH=CONFIG]589541[/ATTACH][ATTACH=CONFIG]589542[/ATTACH][ATTACH=CONFIG]589543[/ATTACH][ATTACH=CONFIG]589544[/ATTACH]

Jabatrom

OurWorkbench: Picture of foot pedal
[ATTACH=CONFIG]589545[/ATTACH]

OurWorkbench

I referred Stefan to this as he posted on one of the above mentioned threads about this machine and I thought I would comment on some of his comments.

Indeed, this particular machine would have been manufactured sometime between 1949 and 1952 according to https://www.janome.com/siteassets/su...anufacture.pdf

This machine is what is termed a long shuttle machine. It does not take the round type bobbins like Stefan's New Home or Free Westinghouse take. (It confused me a bit when he mentioned FW and I was wondering why he was talking about a FeatherWeight then realized what he was referring to.)

The manual Stefan referred to at manualslib.com is the same one that Jon referred to at ISMACS. The manual at doubleveil.net is for a National made machine. There are some similarities and some differences.

Very good advice when he said:
I would add that this machine has a direct drive motor and not belt driven. The correct direction to turn the hand wheel would be in a clockwise motion if you are looking at it from that end.

Frequently, due to storage conditions, the rubber 'pulley' that drives the hand wheel will have a flat spot and does not make for smooth sounding sewing. It depends on size of pulley, size of flat spot as to what the remedy would be.

The lettering on the lip of the machine looks to me as "TYPE J" I have no idea as to what it is referring to. It could company's terminology for the head, the plug or something else.

I agree that the finish is probably original. Yes, they could have different finishes or decals for the same basic machine. I have a Singer 66 and Singer 128 that have the original crinkle finish. They are both from 1950.

I think that if you follow the "Free" manual at ISMACS will get you pretty close to operating this machine.

Are you new to sewing? or just new to vintage sewing machines?

Yes, the foot controller in the last picture is like one that I have. Mine has different plugs to the machine itself. I see where the cord plugs into the base of the machine. I'm not sure if I have a plug like that. Hopefully, yours is the right plug.

Did I notice some additional accessories that came with the machine? Especially any needles? I'm uncertain whether these would take the 20x1 or 15x1. From my understanding you may be able to not put a 15x1 all the way and be able to sew if it takes the 20x1.

It appears threaded correctly. (Or pretty close from what I can see) The flat of the needle is on the right and is threaded left to right.


Janey - Neat people never make the exciting discoveries I do.

OurWorkbench

Leon, do you have a manual for the one on the right? The tension looks closest to the LN machine.

Janey - Neat people never make the exciting discoveries I do.

Mickey2

The machine should clean up nicely. The crinkle finish looks like it's nice condition. When you polish the chromed parts, be carefull not to get any on the brow pain, it's can be very difficult to get things off again. I polished a crinkle finish case once using a resin type car polish and I had a horrible time getting the white stuff left in the crinkles. I would just wipe off gently with a damp microfiber cloth, if a polish is needed, try a grit free polish It's often called a glaze or a sealant and for cars it's a second step over the regular polish to make it last longer.

It shouldn't be too difficult to thread it up, the tricky part is mostly getting the shuttle treaded right and for the top thread, make a point of getting it in between the two flat disks in the tensioner. In the picture it's out side them.

Keep oiling and if it has the ball bearing gear, be carefull not to run it until you have some oil or smooth grease in there.

Since Stefan narrowed down the production date, and the finish looks pefect, I'm sure the brown crinkle finish is original.

leonf

Sorry my supply of manuals is pretty dismal. Luckily, Iris is really good at figuring out how to thread the beasties and I am getting decent about guessing tension after a cleaning.

I am looking for pics my 3/4sized Light running crinkle VS with two friction tired machine.


Light ice covering a lot of Topeka today.

leonf

https://www.quiltingboard.com/member...53-561476.html

Silly me. I was looking on my hard drive and it was already posted here. Forgot it was leaf tension.

Stefan

Hi Janey, et al,

OK I switched here but had no idea this thread was here.
I saw an ebay listing for a type H instead of a type J. The person claimed H was heavy duty. I don't know about that.
Type J is unknown to me. These are not Japanese made clones or knockoffs of Singers.

The finish comes in crinkle green and crinkle brown. Now, that's called wrinkle finish paint and is vintage WWII military finish when black in the military or scienctific instruments of the 1950's.

I bought another green machine yesterday. It looks like the paint was 'sunburned' and the green skin is peeling off. I bought it for parts and it is a mess.
I can't get that later rubber pulley off yet and it could take five days of liquid wrench for that. My first one came off and there were TWO holes drilled into the motor shaft. You can move the entire pulley further out, use that other set screw location just fine, and get onto smooth rubber that was never used. The flat spots are from not using the bobbin swing arm when stored over long periods. You can get half the flat area depth to release but it's never like new. Just move the pulley over. New ones have no bobbin winder extension like the originals.

Does anyone know if you can take anew one and remove the rubber and transfer it to the old shaft and bobbin winder extension? Anyone done that with a new Janome pulley?

Why would you buy a treadle type bobbin in 1952-1953? I have a hard time with the date code for that period but the paint shouts 1940's to 1950s. The paint on that bar above the bobbin winder make appears to be factory original crinkle brown finish. It looks to me like a motor engagement lever when viewed from the side.

My manual links were not prefect but she needs to start somewhere and that was my point there.

I still would like to know what the cast iron base plate says underneath in the casting. If it says "LLB 201-2" then it is from about 1953, IMHO, and with my limited knowledge of two machines and surfing for Free Westinghouse, New Home, Elgin, Eldredge and 10 other names; and buying parts off a black 1937 Elgin Rotary.

If you look at the starting serial numbers in the Janome database, you see the same starting serial numbers for different lettered machines. The message is, "We didn't keep track of the various name plates pinned on the front arm location." My one machine is outside the starting date for a LLC! So, they were running one brand name one day and another the next but the serial numbers were consecutive and nothing was recorded as to the actual name plate brand. My two green LLCs are close in LLC serial numbers but with New Home on one and Free Westinghouse on the other. That's just my opinion looking at the database numbers and name plates.

In another post I said my new green flaking machine could not sew in reverse. Incorrect, I think. It moves the feed dog in reverse but there is no way for me to try sewing on this ..... trashed green LLC machine. The gears are trashed I think and it was never greased on the worm gears like my first LLC.

HTH,

Stefan

leonf

Stefan, I've read a few places where they say Singer made Vibrating shuttles till the late 1950s or into the 60.

They ran well, and many women were quite comfortable with them. Not all saw reasons to switch to round bobbins.
I have motorcycles with points, SteveH has a Corvair. Comfort levels are a huge part of life.

Mickey2

Very unfortunate with the green machine Stefan. I'm partial to green anyway, and the ball gearing got me interested. I don't know much about the various winders, but I have come to think of long bobbin machines as much more common in the 50s than I first though. I'm thinking of (at the time) new freearm models and swing arm zigzag, but Singers 201 was still held in high regard as well as long bobbin models and they were still in production until about 1962. The other US made brands are very interesting.