Vintage Sewing Machine Shop.....Come on in and sit a spell
03-23-2012, 12:10 PM
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Join Date: Apr 2010
Location: Rescue, California
Posts: 4,585
Geeze, you guys I am glad you cleared up the "japan" thing! I thought I had learned what the 'japan' was from Billy!!! Oh well! Now, we all know!
Crewsemj, I see that Cathy and Pat answered some of your questions on the number following the model number - like the 15, and 201's. Here is what I think I know about the 66!
Class 66 - from 1902 to 1956
66-1 Egyptian 1902 - 06 Scroll 1906 - 1923 had back clamping feet - treadles
66-3 Hand crank back clamping
66-4 1923 - side clamping
66-5 side clamping hand crank
66-6 1921 - 31 side clamping electric
66-8 side clamping
66-13 side clamping 1920 -
66- 14 side clamping with reverse
66- 14 thru 66 - 24 reverse and side clamping
Remember the 66 is a full sized version of the 99.
This information I got I believe from ISMACS, anyway it is not always true as I did a study of a lot of our machines here in this shop. There are a few people who own a 66 that should be a back clamp that is a side clamp. I know a lot of people changed them out because it is easier to get the side clamping attachments, but there are lots of exceptions to this list! So once, you think you have it figured out - you will probably find an exception!
Nancy
Crewsemj, I see that Cathy and Pat answered some of your questions on the number following the model number - like the 15, and 201's. Here is what I think I know about the 66!
Class 66 - from 1902 to 1956
66-1 Egyptian 1902 - 06 Scroll 1906 - 1923 had back clamping feet - treadles
66-3 Hand crank back clamping
66-4 1923 - side clamping
66-5 side clamping hand crank
66-6 1921 - 31 side clamping electric
66-8 side clamping
66-13 side clamping 1920 -
66- 14 side clamping with reverse
66- 14 thru 66 - 24 reverse and side clamping
Remember the 66 is a full sized version of the 99.
This information I got I believe from ISMACS, anyway it is not always true as I did a study of a lot of our machines here in this shop. There are a few people who own a 66 that should be a back clamp that is a side clamp. I know a lot of people changed them out because it is easier to get the side clamping attachments, but there are lots of exceptions to this list! So once, you think you have it figured out - you will probably find an exception!
Nancy
03-23-2012, 01:55 PM
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Join Date: Apr 2007
Location: North Carolina - But otherwise, NOTW
Posts: 7,940
Originally Posted by J Miller
Just a comment about top tension. Pulled out my 99K a little while ago, the one I did the pictorial about. Wanted to do some piecing with the ability to reverse tack my seams. I had fits. Birds nests in the bobbin area, sloppy stitches, and the feed dogs kept grabbing at my material and wadding it up. Or, I thought so.
I worked with it cranking in more and more top tension until it was up to 6 on the dial. This with #50 thread. Not right thinks I. So at one point I sat there glaring at it until I had a thought. I lowered the presser foot and turned the dial down to 3. No tension at all. Matter of fact the tension disks were floppy loose.
So I pushed in the numbered part and turned in the chrome nob until I felt some tension as I pulled the thread through the disks, then tried it. Much better. Another number or two in with the nob and then a readjust and now she's sewing better. No birds nests, the stitches have evened out, and the feed dogs seem to have quit wadding up my material. I'm pretty sure the wadding up was the loose top tension or rather the tighter bottom tension pulling on the material.
I tested it fast, slow, in between. 6 stitches per inch to 30 stitches per inch. I think I got it.
At least I hope I do.
Now I'm wondering how the tension adjuster got so messed up. I don't remember taking it apart at all.
Ah the joys of toys.
Joe
I worked with it cranking in more and more top tension until it was up to 6 on the dial. This with #50 thread. Not right thinks I. So at one point I sat there glaring at it until I had a thought. I lowered the presser foot and turned the dial down to 3. No tension at all. Matter of fact the tension disks were floppy loose.
So I pushed in the numbered part and turned in the chrome nob until I felt some tension as I pulled the thread through the disks, then tried it. Much better. Another number or two in with the nob and then a readjust and now she's sewing better. No birds nests, the stitches have evened out, and the feed dogs seem to have quit wadding up my material. I'm pretty sure the wadding up was the loose top tension or rather the tighter bottom tension pulling on the material.
I tested it fast, slow, in between. 6 stitches per inch to 30 stitches per inch. I think I got it.
At least I hope I do.
Now I'm wondering how the tension adjuster got so messed up. I don't remember taking it apart at all.
Ah the joys of toys.
Joe
03-23-2012, 02:07 PM
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Join Date: Apr 2007
Location: North Carolina - But otherwise, NOTW
Posts: 7,940
Originally Posted by pfroggg
Actually, the japan finish is the black underneath (contains asphaltum). I actually found a recipe for re-japanning old tools! (Note: this is just FYI, NOT recommending trying this on sewing machines.)
http://www.woodcentral.com/cgi-bin/r...cles_117.shtml
pat
http://www.woodcentral.com/cgi-bin/r...cles_117.shtml
pat
03-23-2012, 02:27 PM
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Join Date: Apr 2007
Location: North Carolina - But otherwise, NOTW
Posts: 7,940
Originally Posted by BoJangles
66-1 Egyptian 1902 - 06 Scroll 1906 - 1923 had back clamping feet - treadles
- you will probably find an exception!
Nancy
- you will probably find an exception!
Nancy
03-23-2012, 02:42 PM
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Join Date: Mar 2011
Location: Somewhere
Posts: 15,507
Originally Posted by nurseknitsLaura
On cleaning filthy machines, I have some thoughts. I love a filthy frozen, free machine. I owe them a lot, because when it is already so bad, I am not afraid to work on it. The two clean and shiny machines I have bought were much less satisfying- nothing to do! My cleaning of machines got much more successful and had better results, with less decal loss, when i realized one thing: they didn't get that dirty in a day, and they weren't going to get clean in a day. Miz kaki has talked of covering a machine in baby oil and just letting it soak for a week before she even starts on it. I think that is a wise course. The old finishes seem to respond well to oil, we know for sure they were designed to tolerate oil, and once the dirt has loosened up, it is a simple matter o patient slow wiping with millions o cotton balls, or alternately, squares of quilt batting or old flannel sheets cut up small. You do want to go through a lot of cotton, as the dirt is abrasive, and so after the cotton is dirty, you toss it. I have had machines really transformed by patient cleaning, sometimes by three or four patient cleanings a week apart. They seem to continuously improve. These are just my thoughts and experiences, I am self taught and unschooled. But I have had results I find satisfying. Laura
03-23-2012, 02:43 PM
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Join Date: Feb 2012
Posts: 8,091
Originally Posted by jljack
I have a continuing issue with my upper tensioner on my 301. When I got it, the tensioner was DOA...spring was sprung and parts gone. I put a brand new one on, but I have to set the knob at 0 to get correct tension...above that it's pulling the bobbin thread through. I'm not confident enough to mess around with it beyond my two tries to reinstall it for better result. Any suggestions?
It's a case off needing adjustment. Without having it in front of me to tinker with I really am not versed enough with them to tell you how to proceed. I do know that in my 201 manual and several others they go into great detail on how to remove, disassemble, reassemble and adjust the top tensioner.
So my suggestion would be to go to the Singer home page and download and print a manual if you don't have one.
Sorry I couldn't be of more help.
Joe
03-23-2012, 02:50 PM
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Join Date: Sep 2009
Location: Idaho
Posts: 6,442
Originally Posted by jljack
My 1909 66-1 has the Brown Lotus decals and is back clamp feet and treadle. I've seen lots of this decal on machines from that time period....is that the wrong name for it?
03-23-2012, 02:52 PM
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Location: Somewhere
Posts: 15,507
Originally Posted by jljack
I have a continuing issue with my upper tensioner on my 301. When I got it, the tensioner was DOA...spring was sprung and parts gone. I put a brand new one on, but I have to set the knob at 0 to get correct tension...above that it's pulling the bobbin thread through. I'm not confident enough to mess around with it beyond my two tries to reinstall it for better result. Any suggestions?
03-23-2012, 03:02 PM
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Join Date: Jan 2011
Location: Ocean Springs, MS
Posts: 9,287
That is very thoughful of you. I just purchase my first vintage machine today from a seller on craigslist gulfport. It needs a new belt. No manual, bobbin or attachments to go with it. It is a vintage singer spartan. In the area of the throat plate is reads "Made in Great Britain." On the back by the belt it states "Made in Canada." V.110-120,A.O.B, A.C. & DC. What can you tell me about this machine?
03-23-2012, 03:05 PM
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Join Date: Mar 2010
Location: Huntsville, AL
Posts: 2,609
Originally Posted by jljack
Pat - Wow....asphaltum? Is that why my 1890 Davis looks like the finish "melted" in some spots??? I never heard this before, but it is a fascinating bit of knowledge. So glad you and Cathy have joined us here...more information!!
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