In search of constructive criticism
04-26-2018, 06:13 AM
#22
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Join Date: Jul 2010
Location: Flagstaff, Arizona
Posts: 9,475
First of all-your block is beautiful and I love your fabric choices. I think you have done a great job and you seem to be getting a lot of wonderful advice. All I can add is that I learned to sew a scant 1/4" and sew slowly and carefully. You are off to a great start and just practice, practice, practice. Good luck and welcome to the quilting world-it is a great hobby.
04-26-2018, 07:54 AM
#23
Super Member
Join Date: May 2013
Location: Ballwin, MO
Posts: 4,210
Your first block is lovely, and much more difficult than the sorts of patterns I started out with. My first quilt top was truly a mess, but the nice ladies at my LQS were so encouraging. They said, 'We're here to have fun, not to be perfect.'
It's hard to make suggestions without specifically knowing what techniques you are using. I like written directions, so when I was starting out, I read a lot of books about the fundamentals of piecing. Since you prefer visual directions, maybe you could google topics like pressing, cutting, and techniques for matching seams, to make sure you are doing those things properly.
The main thing is just to keep on piecing, and you will improve with every project. I highly recommend doing the Bonnie Hunter mystery each winter. She gives great directions, and my piecing has improved greatly from doing those mysteries.
It's hard to make suggestions without specifically knowing what techniques you are using. I like written directions, so when I was starting out, I read a lot of books about the fundamentals of piecing. Since you prefer visual directions, maybe you could google topics like pressing, cutting, and techniques for matching seams, to make sure you are doing those things properly.
The main thing is just to keep on piecing, and you will improve with every project. I highly recommend doing the Bonnie Hunter mystery each winter. She gives great directions, and my piecing has improved greatly from doing those mysteries.
04-26-2018, 08:57 AM
#24
Power Poster
Join Date: Dec 2008
Location: Western Wisconsin
Posts: 12,930
When I need to match points, I glue pin using Elmer's white washable school glue. Here's how:
I go to my ironing board and place a pin through the points that need to match. Once I am satisfied with the pin, I make the pin go straight up and down into the mat as much as possible. This makes sure the points are matched up. I then place a tiny dot or two of Elmer's glue in the seam allowance next to the pin and use my iron on that seam allowance for a few seconds to dry the glue. Repeat for each point.
Now, when I take the pieces to the sewing machine, I have glue instead of pins holding the points together. If there is excess fabric between the "pins", I can ease that in as necessary.
If there are points, I sew with the point-side up so I can see where the seam intersection is. If there are points on both sides of the pieces, I will sometimes sew through one point, remove from sewing machine, flip the pieces over, and sew from the other side.
To increase cutting accuracy, it's a good idea to starch the fabric before cutting. Starch stabilizes the fabric so you get more accurate cuts. Starch also helps with bias edges, as it stabilizes the fabric so the bias edge is less likely to distort as you sew. You can use heavier starches, but even spray starch is enough to help with this step.
I go to my ironing board and place a pin through the points that need to match. Once I am satisfied with the pin, I make the pin go straight up and down into the mat as much as possible. This makes sure the points are matched up. I then place a tiny dot or two of Elmer's glue in the seam allowance next to the pin and use my iron on that seam allowance for a few seconds to dry the glue. Repeat for each point.
Now, when I take the pieces to the sewing machine, I have glue instead of pins holding the points together. If there is excess fabric between the "pins", I can ease that in as necessary.
If there are points, I sew with the point-side up so I can see where the seam intersection is. If there are points on both sides of the pieces, I will sometimes sew through one point, remove from sewing machine, flip the pieces over, and sew from the other side.
To increase cutting accuracy, it's a good idea to starch the fabric before cutting. Starch stabilizes the fabric so you get more accurate cuts. Starch also helps with bias edges, as it stabilizes the fabric so the bias edge is less likely to distort as you sew. You can use heavier starches, but even spray starch is enough to help with this step.
04-26-2018, 11:50 AM
#25
Super Member
Join Date: Dec 2017
Posts: 1,866
Your block looks very nice! Your fabric choices are lovely.
I have recently pieced a Lone Star quilt - with 512 diamonds in it, I've gotten a lot of practice with getting my points just right. Here are my thoughts and tips.
1) Be aware of the challenge of seam intersections with one or more diagonals. When you are sewing lots of squares together, seam intersections are pretty easy; provided that the seams are lined up as you feed the fabric into your sewing machine, sewing a little bit to the right or the left of the ideal sewing line does not mess up the intersection. When there diagonal seams, everything is much fussier; swinging just a bit to the right or left will result in either a point being cut off or the point not quite reaching the intersection. So, getting good points in a matter of both aligning the fabric properly before sewing and sewing in exactly the right spot.
2) Before I put tricky/fussy pieces together, I mark my 1/4" sewing line on the back of the fabric with an erasable fabric pencil.
3) To align the pieces, I put a straight pin through the sewing line (back to front) at the exact point I want at the intersection and check the front side, then put the pin through the second piece (front to back), again at the exact intersection point, and make sure the pin is coming out on the sewing line on the second piece. Have the fabric at about the midpoint of the pin. Hold the two pieces very firmly together; you don't want any gap between them. Make sure the pin is perpendicular to the fabric; if it's not, slide the pieces so that it is. Use a straight pin on each side of the alignment pieces to pin them together. When pinning, use a low angle through the fabric to avoid distorting the intersection. I usually bend the fabric a bit as I am pinning to get the low angle. Hopefully after pinning, your alignment pin is still close to perpendicular to the fabric; if it's not, remove the two pins and try again. Once you've got everything looking good, you can remove the alignment pin.
4) When sewing, slow down at intersections and make sure that you are *exactly* on the marked sewing line. Many sewing machines will naturally want to pull a bit to one side when they encounter the extra bulk of an intersection. I some times do the few stitches near and at an intersection by turning the hand wheel on the machine; this allows me to make sure those stitches are exactly where they should be. It also allows me to leave the two pins in while sewing the intersection.
5) After you've sewed a seam, you will sometimes find an intersection that is only slightly off. You can correct minor errors by resewing only the intersection involved, rather than ripping out and redoing the whole seam. If the point is cut off, you would have to rip out the stitching at the intersection and resew with a slightly smaller seam allowance. If the point is not quite reaching the intersection, you can leave the original stitching alone and sew the intersection again with a slightly larger seam allowance.
I don't know if you have any issues with cutting accuracy, but I discovered that I was making a small mistake and I suspect many other quilters make it, too. When setting up your ruler for a rotary cut, make sure the measuring line is actually on the fabric, not next to fabric. If it's next to the fabric, your cut will give you piece a tiny bit too small. I make sure the line is fully on the fabric, and usually about one thread over.
I find a walking foot helpful with feeding everything evenly into the sewing machine.
Welcome to fun hobby of quilting! Enjoy the journey.
I have recently pieced a Lone Star quilt - with 512 diamonds in it, I've gotten a lot of practice with getting my points just right. Here are my thoughts and tips.
1) Be aware of the challenge of seam intersections with one or more diagonals. When you are sewing lots of squares together, seam intersections are pretty easy; provided that the seams are lined up as you feed the fabric into your sewing machine, sewing a little bit to the right or the left of the ideal sewing line does not mess up the intersection. When there diagonal seams, everything is much fussier; swinging just a bit to the right or left will result in either a point being cut off or the point not quite reaching the intersection. So, getting good points in a matter of both aligning the fabric properly before sewing and sewing in exactly the right spot.
2) Before I put tricky/fussy pieces together, I mark my 1/4" sewing line on the back of the fabric with an erasable fabric pencil.
3) To align the pieces, I put a straight pin through the sewing line (back to front) at the exact point I want at the intersection and check the front side, then put the pin through the second piece (front to back), again at the exact intersection point, and make sure the pin is coming out on the sewing line on the second piece. Have the fabric at about the midpoint of the pin. Hold the two pieces very firmly together; you don't want any gap between them. Make sure the pin is perpendicular to the fabric; if it's not, slide the pieces so that it is. Use a straight pin on each side of the alignment pieces to pin them together. When pinning, use a low angle through the fabric to avoid distorting the intersection. I usually bend the fabric a bit as I am pinning to get the low angle. Hopefully after pinning, your alignment pin is still close to perpendicular to the fabric; if it's not, remove the two pins and try again. Once you've got everything looking good, you can remove the alignment pin.
4) When sewing, slow down at intersections and make sure that you are *exactly* on the marked sewing line. Many sewing machines will naturally want to pull a bit to one side when they encounter the extra bulk of an intersection. I some times do the few stitches near and at an intersection by turning the hand wheel on the machine; this allows me to make sure those stitches are exactly where they should be. It also allows me to leave the two pins in while sewing the intersection.
5) After you've sewed a seam, you will sometimes find an intersection that is only slightly off. You can correct minor errors by resewing only the intersection involved, rather than ripping out and redoing the whole seam. If the point is cut off, you would have to rip out the stitching at the intersection and resew with a slightly smaller seam allowance. If the point is not quite reaching the intersection, you can leave the original stitching alone and sew the intersection again with a slightly larger seam allowance.
I don't know if you have any issues with cutting accuracy, but I discovered that I was making a small mistake and I suspect many other quilters make it, too. When setting up your ruler for a rotary cut, make sure the measuring line is actually on the fabric, not next to fabric. If it's next to the fabric, your cut will give you piece a tiny bit too small. I make sure the line is fully on the fabric, and usually about one thread over.
I find a walking foot helpful with feeding everything evenly into the sewing machine.
Welcome to fun hobby of quilting! Enjoy the journey.
Last edited by platyhiker; 04-26-2018 at 12:08 PM.
04-26-2018, 12:16 PM
#26
Super Member
Join Date: Dec 2017
Posts: 1,866
Addendum to my post, above: The link (https://www.connectingthreads.com/tu...Pin__D103.html) that oksewglad posted is good for showing some pictures of using an alignment pin (it calls it a positioning pin). I like the tip to sew one thread away from the tip to allow for the seam to open up.
04-26-2018, 01:49 PM
#27
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Thread Starter
Join Date: Apr 2018
Location: Philomath, Oregon
Posts: 2,076
Originally Posted by bearisgray
I like your block -
A lot of people - me included - make the HST (half-square-triangle) units - the red and white units in your block - slightly oversized and then trim them down.
Example: if the directions say to cut a square 2-7/8, we cut the square 3 inches - and then do the diagonal sewing - and then cut the squares diagonally - and then trim them -
When I cut the square sizes "exactly' - even when I sewed "a very scant 1/4 inch seam" - my units ended up skimpy (too small) - so I add plus 1/8 inch to the directions for those units.
Only one of your eight HST units has noticeable points issues - Now the question is - what happened with that one?
How did you make yout HST units? There are several ways to make them.
I still need to measure each section to see if it's the size I want it to be - it's easier to "adjust" as I go, then when the block is "finished"
Would you be willing to also show a picture of the back of your block? That's where we might be able to get more ideas of where that one unit is wonky compared to the others.
A lot of people - me included - make the HST (half-square-triangle) units - the red and white units in your block - slightly oversized and then trim them down.
Example: if the directions say to cut a square 2-7/8, we cut the square 3 inches - and then do the diagonal sewing - and then cut the squares diagonally - and then trim them -
When I cut the square sizes "exactly' - even when I sewed "a very scant 1/4 inch seam" - my units ended up skimpy (too small) - so I add plus 1/8 inch to the directions for those units.
Only one of your eight HST units has noticeable points issues - Now the question is - what happened with that one?
How did you make yout HST units? There are several ways to make them.
I still need to measure each section to see if it's the size I want it to be - it's easier to "adjust" as I go, then when the block is "finished"
Would you be willing to also show a picture of the back of your block? That's where we might be able to get more ideas of where that one unit is wonky compared to the others.
To make the hst I sewed two 10 inch blocks together crisscross 1/4 inch from the diagonal lines I had marked on them, then cut it giving me 8 hst per set. Then I used a 4 1/2 inch square ruler to trim them. I felt a bit wonky using the ruler as it is a new one I just got that has a groove in it to nestle the seem in for accuracy.
oops! Something went wrong with the upload, trying again...
Last edited by PamelaOry; 04-26-2018 at 01:57 PM.
04-26-2018, 02:30 PM
#29
Super Member
Join Date: Oct 2010
Location: Maple City, MI
Posts: 2,135
When I started quilting...I made squares...(had no clue that those squares had to be trimmed!)...It has been 30 years now...I still smile at my first quilts...and smile at the most recent ones. It is all a part of the journey..Learn as you go kind of deal...relax! Next time around you will know that your points will need to have 1/4 inch seam allowance...and that will take time to master as well...it is a hobby...not a race
04-26-2018, 05:04 PM
#30
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Thread Starter
Join Date: Apr 2018
Location: Philomath, Oregon
Posts: 2,076
Thank you ALL so much!!
I couldn't believe it when I logged in and saw all the posts with so much wonderful feedback. I am thrilled, no really... LOL I am!
I'm going to keep this thread bookmarked and revisit it again after I go through and make some of the easier for me to understand changes. That way, I can glean from it again and again, as the information here is priceless.
Thank you for taking the time to thoughtfully respond to my request.
I have been pulling the fabric to try to get things lined up as I sew, I will try pinning first then press down as I feed through and see if that helps.
Also, I have never thought of the difference between ironing and pressing but now that you mention it, it makes perfect sense!
I LOVE this!
What is the "point pieced fabric"?
I didn't even think of paying attention to which side my ruler line is on...I will add that to my things to pay attention too.
I'm having a heck of a time keeping my sewing straight. Not sure why it keeps pulling to the left?
I think half the battle for me is won if I don't know ahead of time if it's supposed to be hard. LOL.
I thought we were supposed to use the ruler not the mat, but then saw some tutorials where they are using the mat too. I'm not sure how to use the ruler on some of the larger cuts.
Isn't she fun to watch? I am using up the remainder of a jelly roll so have coordinating but different fabrics for the other blocks. I'm thinking of stopping at four and making a wall hanging, getting the points lined up is hard to do!
I am swinging! Not at the beginning but at the end, I've been trying to keep the fabric going in straight but it's been a challenge. I will look at these and try using a leader/ender.
I will check it out, I've seen the word "mystery" in other quilting related stuff... does this mean that the blocks are introduced over time?
Is there a brand that is good to use for piecing? I have some "flatter" spray but I don't think it is starch.
I will try this and see if I can fix some of the off points, I hadn't thought of just ripping the area of the point, great idea!
I also didn't think to use my walking foot because I'm only sewing two pieces of fabric. It works to use it for that?
I couldn't believe it when I logged in and saw all the posts with so much wonderful feedback. I am thrilled, no really... LOL I am!
I'm going to keep this thread bookmarked and revisit it again after I go through and make some of the easier for me to understand changes. That way, I can glean from it again and again, as the information here is priceless.
Thank you for taking the time to thoughtfully respond to my request.
Originally Posted by Feather3
...When sewing on the bias it often stretches, so the walking foot will help. Let the machine do the work, do not pull on the fabric. Instead press down on the fabric & let it feed thru the machine. Do a test sew & make sure the needle enters the fabric at the 1/4 inch mark or scant 1/4 inch. Accurate seams are a must when piecing. Use a seam guide.
When working with fabric that will have bias edges it helps to starch it before cutting & sewing. You can still starch & Press, not iron, your pieces. Pressing is just setting the iron down, picking it up & moving it & setting it down. Ironing is moving it across the fabric. That can stretch it. Pressing retains the shape.
Love your color choices. It's going to be very pretty.
Best wishes.
When working with fabric that will have bias edges it helps to starch it before cutting & sewing. You can still starch & Press, not iron, your pieces. Pressing is just setting the iron down, picking it up & moving it & setting it down. Ironing is moving it across the fabric. That can stretch it. Pressing retains the shape.
Love your color choices. It's going to be very pretty.
Best wishes.
Also, I have never thought of the difference between ironing and pressing but now that you mention it, it makes perfect sense!
Originally Posted by gshalom
... Use the Amish principle...only God can make something perfect, and even God had to do a “do-over”. Don’t obsess...enjoy the journey.
Originally Posted by QuiltnNan
Your quilt is terrific. Feather3 gave great advice. I found that my points were much better when I sewed them with the point pieced fabric on top. That way you can see where your needle is entering the fabric... just a thread beyond the point to allow for turning. Keep going!
Originally Posted by NJ Quilter
Not being critical here, just offering some advice on what I think could be your issues. Feather3 did give you some excellent advice.
It appears to me you may have both cutting and piecing issues... Otherwise sometimes you place your ruler on this side or the other side of the line - at least I do!
.... If I manage to keep my fabric lined up with the edge of the foot, my seams are a 'scant' 1/4" all the way along.
I also press my seams open vs to the side. I feel it gives me an overall flatter block but I also feel it makes it more accurate for me to match seams/points. When doing this, I place a pin straight down through the top pieces I'm matching up and then take the bottom section I'm matching and place the pin straight down through that piece. Hold the pin straight up/down while lining up that intersection top/bottom.
...
No one told me it was supposed to be difficult, lol.
'Press' on!
It appears to me you may have both cutting and piecing issues... Otherwise sometimes you place your ruler on this side or the other side of the line - at least I do!
.... If I manage to keep my fabric lined up with the edge of the foot, my seams are a 'scant' 1/4" all the way along.
I also press my seams open vs to the side. I feel it gives me an overall flatter block but I also feel it makes it more accurate for me to match seams/points. When doing this, I place a pin straight down through the top pieces I'm matching up and then take the bottom section I'm matching and place the pin straight down through that piece. Hold the pin straight up/down while lining up that intersection top/bottom.
...
No one told me it was supposed to be difficult, lol.
'Press' on!
I'm having a heck of a time keeping my sewing straight. Not sure why it keeps pulling to the left?
I think half the battle for me is won if I don't know ahead of time if it's supposed to be hard. LOL.
Originally Posted by Tartan
Pretty block! When cutting out your pieces, the line on the ruler should be used to measure not the mat. The lines on the ruler also should be on the fabric cut edge not over it for that tiny bit of extra fabric in your pieces. Test by sewing two squares together and measuring the finished unit to see if you are getting an accurate seam allowance. Cut your pieces on the straight of grain whenever possible. Pin any bias edges so they don't stretch as you sew.
Originally Posted by lizzie3
This is the block that I plan to do next! It's so beautiful and I love Jenny Doan's easy instructions for any block.
...
Are you planning to do all of your blocks in the same colour scheme or are you going to alternate colours?
Keep it up, you are doing a great job!!
...
Are you planning to do all of your blocks in the same colour scheme or are you going to alternate colours?
Keep it up, you are doing a great job!!
I am using up the remainder of a jelly roll so have coordinating but different fabrics for the other blocks. I'm thinking of stopping at four and making a wall hanging, getting the points lined up is hard to do!
Originally Posted by oksewglad
...
When you are sewing your HST together, make sure you are using the 1/4" seam allowance from the edge of the fabric...instead of being straight on I tend to slightly "swing" into my stitching at the beginning and end of the seam..this little bit skews the seam allowance. Mindlessly sew a few pairs of fabric squares together...do you see a little curve in your stitching? If so this could be the problem. (Ask me how I know!) I think this is more noticeable with HST because the point isn't right.
So how to avoid this swinging? Sit squarely in front of your needle so that you are feeding the fabric in squarely. At the end of the seam chain piecing another unit through..this helps me keep the pieces in straight alignment. One of the reasons I like Bonnie Hunter's leaders and enders technique is because I always have something to chain piece and keep me straight sewing.
https://quiltville.com/leadersenders.shtml
This is a good tutorial, but notice that all of the seam allowance is nice and even.
https://www.connectingthreads.com/tu...Pin__D103.html
Your are coming along beautifully...enjoy this new hobby. I hope it will give you a lifetime of pleasure as it has given me!
When you are sewing your HST together, make sure you are using the 1/4" seam allowance from the edge of the fabric...instead of being straight on I tend to slightly "swing" into my stitching at the beginning and end of the seam..this little bit skews the seam allowance. Mindlessly sew a few pairs of fabric squares together...do you see a little curve in your stitching? If so this could be the problem. (Ask me how I know!) I think this is more noticeable with HST because the point isn't right.
So how to avoid this swinging? Sit squarely in front of your needle so that you are feeding the fabric in squarely. At the end of the seam chain piecing another unit through..this helps me keep the pieces in straight alignment. One of the reasons I like Bonnie Hunter's leaders and enders technique is because I always have something to chain piece and keep me straight sewing.
https://quiltville.com/leadersenders.shtml
This is a good tutorial, but notice that all of the seam allowance is nice and even.
https://www.connectingthreads.com/tu...Pin__D103.html
Your are coming along beautifully...enjoy this new hobby. I hope it will give you a lifetime of pleasure as it has given me!
Originally Posted by joe'smom
...
The main thing is just to keep on piecing, and you will improve with every project. I highly recommend doing the Bonnie Hunter mystery each winter. She gives great directions, and my piecing has improved greatly from doing those mysteries.
The main thing is just to keep on piecing, and you will improve with every project. I highly recommend doing the Bonnie Hunter mystery each winter. She gives great directions, and my piecing has improved greatly from doing those mysteries.
Originally Posted by Prism99
...
To increase cutting accuracy, it's a good idea to starch the fabric before cutting. Starch stabilizes the fabric so you get more accurate cuts. Starch also helps with bias edges, as it stabilizes the fabric so the bias edge is less likely to distort as you sew. You can use heavier starches, but even spray starch is enough to help with this step.
To increase cutting accuracy, it's a good idea to starch the fabric before cutting. Starch stabilizes the fabric so you get more accurate cuts. Starch also helps with bias edges, as it stabilizes the fabric so the bias edge is less likely to distort as you sew. You can use heavier starches, but even spray starch is enough to help with this step.
Originally Posted by platyhiker
...
5) After you've sewed a seam, you will sometimes find an intersection that is only slightly off. You can correct minor errors by resewing only the intersection involved, rather than ripping out and redoing the whole seam. If the point is cut off, you would have to rip out the stitching at the intersection and resew with a slightly smaller seam allowance. If the point is not quite reaching the intersection, you can leave the original stitching alone and sew the intersection again with a slightly larger seam allowance.
...
I find a walking foot helpful with feeding everything evenly.
5) After you've sewed a seam, you will sometimes find an intersection that is only slightly off. You can correct minor errors by resewing only the intersection involved, rather than ripping out and redoing the whole seam. If the point is cut off, you would have to rip out the stitching at the intersection and resew with a slightly smaller seam allowance. If the point is not quite reaching the intersection, you can leave the original stitching alone and sew the intersection again with a slightly larger seam allowance.
...
I find a walking foot helpful with feeding everything evenly.
I also didn't think to use my walking foot because I'm only sewing two pieces of fabric. It works to use it for that?
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06-08-2009 09:49 PM
