Singer 15-91 ugly bottom stitching
06-14-2012, 06:54 PM
#21
Junior Member
Join Date: Jan 2012
Location: New York City
Posts: 138
"I'm like Tim the tool man ,,, Horse POWER ..."
It's a sewing machine, not a tractor pull. If it's raw horsepower you're after, you'll need to go industrial.
I think you may be missing my central point, which is that horsepower doesn't mean anything if you can't get it to the rear wheels. The 15-91 has plenty of punch, which any number of people who use that machine can tell you, but that doesn't mean anything if you are not able to figure out how to get it to the rear wheels.
It's a sewing machine, not a tractor pull. If it's raw horsepower you're after, you'll need to go industrial.
I think you may be missing my central point, which is that horsepower doesn't mean anything if you can't get it to the rear wheels. The 15-91 has plenty of punch, which any number of people who use that machine can tell you, but that doesn't mean anything if you are not able to figure out how to get it to the rear wheels.
06-14-2012, 07:35 PM
#23
Senior Member
Join Date: Apr 2012
Location: Illinois...near St. Louis
Posts: 392
Originally Posted by notsureif
I sent mike a pm on what I found when I got my 15, yes very confusing, I read and read about threading some site say the needle threads left to right , then I find it has to do with where the needle bar thread guide faces,,, on the left side it threads left to right on the front it threads front to rear, which make sense,, lining the thread with the long groove in the needle, that diagram above look like front to rear to me ??
even more confusion I ran my # ( ah 695457 ) found it's a 15 - 96 from 1954 ?? there's no model tag , today ran it again it comes up a 1948 15 - 91 ?? this has a potted motor ( don't have a clue what it's 15 - something singer ) I also have a 201, these potted motor machines are very low power ,, they do not do well on heavy fabric's, Both of these have one steel gear and one fiber gear ,,, silver is steel, red is a fiber
The bobbin case, I had the same problem with this 15, I finally took the bobbin case apart is was clean but sticky, the latch was not sliding all the way in and only locking half way..
even more confusion I ran my # ( ah 695457 ) found it's a 15 - 96 from 1954 ?? there's no model tag , today ran it again it comes up a 1948 15 - 91 ?? this has a potted motor ( don't have a clue what it's 15 - something singer ) I also have a 201, these potted motor machines are very low power ,, they do not do well on heavy fabric's, Both of these have one steel gear and one fiber gear ,,, silver is steel, red is a fiber
The bobbin case, I had the same problem with this 15, I finally took the bobbin case apart is was clean but sticky, the latch was not sliding all the way in and only locking half way..
I certainly wouldn't abuse mine like that but it hems jeans like it's sewing thru silk....
A 15-91 only has one position...it's a straight stitch only machine.
06-15-2012, 03:49 AM
#26
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Thread Starter
Join Date: Jun 2012
Location: White Plains, NY
Posts: 11
Well, I got it to the point where straight stitches are working, once going. Whats happening now is that when the machine *starts* sewing, I still get that bunching of thread on the underside, but only for the first few stitches.
Full size see here: http://www.pbase.com/mchad/image/144061375 - looking at the image, you can see where i started on the bottom right: I sew going left, where I stop, rotate 90deg cw, sew a bit, stop again, rotate again and sew to the end. At every start, it bunches for a few stitches.
To reply to some of the comments: I need to use this thread. It is for a marine canvas, so I need UV proof thread. The thread is Gore (as in Gore-tex) Tenera V92 which is a lifetime thread, and is the thinnest thread they make for marine canvas applications. So no options there. I am currently using a #16 needle, installed and threaded correctly (which is right to left per the manual, by the way - needle bar thread giude on the right as well), which I have found is recommended for this thread by the mfgr. The thread is VERY slick, with the tension I have it dialed to. If I put in a much thinner cotton or nylon thread at the same tension, it is three times harder to pull through. As before, I do have the machine and bobbin threaded exactly as specified in the manual. All I did to get to this point is endless changes to both the bobbin and upper tensions. The machine seems eager to go through many more layers (I bought some similar weight canvas to practice on) then I will actually need to, so im not worried about that. And as this is already sewn, and I am just planning on going over the existing, disintegrating thread, i'm not worried about needing a walking foot.
If I can get that remaining bunching sorted out, I will be good. For this project at least.
Full size see here: http://www.pbase.com/mchad/image/144061375 - looking at the image, you can see where i started on the bottom right: I sew going left, where I stop, rotate 90deg cw, sew a bit, stop again, rotate again and sew to the end. At every start, it bunches for a few stitches.
To reply to some of the comments: I need to use this thread. It is for a marine canvas, so I need UV proof thread. The thread is Gore (as in Gore-tex) Tenera V92 which is a lifetime thread, and is the thinnest thread they make for marine canvas applications. So no options there. I am currently using a #16 needle, installed and threaded correctly (which is right to left per the manual, by the way - needle bar thread giude on the right as well), which I have found is recommended for this thread by the mfgr. The thread is VERY slick, with the tension I have it dialed to. If I put in a much thinner cotton or nylon thread at the same tension, it is three times harder to pull through. As before, I do have the machine and bobbin threaded exactly as specified in the manual. All I did to get to this point is endless changes to both the bobbin and upper tensions. The machine seems eager to go through many more layers (I bought some similar weight canvas to practice on) then I will actually need to, so im not worried about that. And as this is already sewn, and I am just planning on going over the existing, disintegrating thread, i'm not worried about needing a walking foot.
If I can get that remaining bunching sorted out, I will be good. For this project at least.
Last edited by mikec; 06-15-2012 at 03:55 AM.
06-15-2012, 04:00 AM
#27
Super Member
Join Date: Mar 2010
Location: PROFESSIONAL Longarm Quilter NW Indiana
Posts: 3,400
I don't mean to insult, but you said you're a novice at sewing machines.
The reason the threads are bunching up underneath is because the bobbin thread needs to be pulled up before starting...just like in quilting.
PULL UP THE BOBBIN THREAD by taking one stitch manually. Here's a 1 minute video to show how to http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=UEmMYMjWUo8 (hold top thread, take one stitch manually, pull up bobbin)
When turning the corner IS YOUR NEEDLE IN THE DOWN POSITION? ... it should be in the down position, turn fabric, then sew.
Hope this helps
Stitches look GREAT from the side we can see....what's the other side look like?
The reason the threads are bunching up underneath is because the bobbin thread needs to be pulled up before starting...just like in quilting.
PULL UP THE BOBBIN THREAD by taking one stitch manually. Here's a 1 minute video to show how to http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=UEmMYMjWUo8 (hold top thread, take one stitch manually, pull up bobbin)
When turning the corner IS YOUR NEEDLE IN THE DOWN POSITION? ... it should be in the down position, turn fabric, then sew.
Hope this helps
Stitches look GREAT from the side we can see....what's the other side look like?
Last edited by quiltinghere; 06-15-2012 at 04:07 AM.
06-15-2012, 04:03 AM
#28
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Thread Starter
Join Date: Jun 2012
Location: White Plains, NY
Posts: 11
Its funny that you say that. Because when I first started this fiasco, no I wasn't securing the thread, it was hanging free. Now, i secure the top thread under the foot (as instructed in the manual) before starting. And yes, the needle is fully down before I raise the foot to rotate the material.
No offence taken, I know I have no idea what I am doing at this point!
No offence taken, I know I have no idea what I am doing at this point!
06-15-2012, 04:06 AM
#29
Super Member
Join Date: Jul 2010
Location: Ohio
Posts: 3,712
Originally Posted by Charlee
I disagree John!! Both my 15-91 and my 201-2 will power through everything I've thrown at them, and I've run some pretty heavy duty thing under those presser feet!
06-15-2012, 05:14 AM
#30
Super Member
Join Date: Oct 2010
Location: Southern California
Posts: 2,410
oh it is not in the tension correctly, it is on the wire but not the metal 'U'
if the bottom fabric is slippery sew with a piece of tissue(gift wrapping type) under the project and fold it to the stitching , crease and tear off when finished.
if the bottom fabric is slippery sew with a piece of tissue(gift wrapping type) under the project and fold it to the stitching , crease and tear off when finished.
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