Charlee

Mike, are you holding both top and bobbin threads as you start your seam for the first stitches? Then you can let them go and just stitch....

mikec

I'm pretty sure it was routed correctly, but just to make sure I understand you, by "U" you mean point 3 on the illustration on my post on page 2? See the insert "L" - that is exactly how I have the thread routed around the tensioner. Down from the top feed, around the tensioner from back side to the front side, up over the metal groove (the "U"?) forward and under the spring, then up to the arm..

mikec

I don't actually hold them - I only recently made sure that they are under the foot being pressed in place... I can try that, but I don't think that will affect the "stop and start" bunching that I showed on my most recent photo post, as once it's started, there's nothing for me to grab hold of? Thanks

crisscross

Well, taking the slack out of the first stitch will make the second stitch tighter, which will make the third one tighter...so, yes, IME, holding the thread tails as you begin does help.

Should that not work, you could always start sewing before where you need to, then go back and pick out the thread from the first few messy stitches.

mikec

I will try holding the first stitch, but that won't make much difference where you stop and change direction, without removing the needle, will it? I can't accept that this is normal operation, there must be something other then my inexperience at work here. I ordered a new bobbin case, just in case. Otherwise, I suppose I'll have to bring it in to a shop. It's too bad, because I really need to get this cover restitched, and if i have to service it, it will be another week... I guess if I bought a new machine, I wouldn't be in this "boat".

In any case, thanks to everyone who is trying to help. I really appreciate it!

Skyangel

Ditto on all the above suggestions. Re-thread, larger needle, check for burrs, hold the thread ends when starting.

Have you considered getting a teflon roller foot to improve fabric handling since you say your fabric is slippery? My Hubby sews canvas a lot (for his black powder reenactor hobby) and uses a roller foot and size 18 needles for the heaviest work. The 15-91 uses low shank attachments so a aftermarket roller foot shold be easy to find ... You say you recently got the machine - did you give it a good oiling everywhere before you started using it?

xxxxxxxxxx

Mike,

I put 4 hrs on mine last night....and read many sites on threading and needle position,, then tried them all. I had this same problem when I got this, finally cured the problem but can't remember what it was..

last night, I had the same problem as you,, it's not constant. using 100/18 110/18 100/16 and a ploy thread.

My balling happens most often as it leaves the fabric,, the white stitches are from a standard treadle black is the 15 - 91

1st is 8 layers of T shirt next is only two

xxxxxxxxxx

I played with mine during the day,,, and again tonight ,, I hope problem solved... teh pic he posted and the diagram are right ,, around the tensoiner over the hook and down to the spring then take up lever..
once again I took teh bobbin area apart down to removing the cast iron part that the hook rides in...

now you can see the loop form very well. most of the loop is on the left side ? outside, Hmm the hook is on the left side of the needle...

we know the cut out on the needle is there for the hook to past by on some machines.. ( one needle fits many ) .

we read here to put the flat side the needle on the right side / machine side , which also puts that cut out on the right side... but the cut out goes on the hook side ?? Ido and watch the loop form and twist side ways as the needle goes up.. so I turn the needle so that cut is facing teh hook, now the loop forms and stays open.

Isew and bingo she's working good BUT still at time I get a slight balling at the start if I don't pull the tails... if I raise the foot set teh pacth and go there's no balling .. I never had a ball in the run.

That needle in this machine has to go in with the flat to the outside, left ..putting the cut out facing the hook..

The 8 layers of T shirt were a piece of cake, it never missed in 5 pass or balled,

Ok taht was fun , now back to threading a new home LOL

mikec

Well, I think I finally found the problem. Top tension. After disassembling and reassembling the shuttle, checking that every joint is oiled, I decided it had to be a setting. So, I basically tried every combination of bobbin tension, and upper tension. I found that the higher the top tension, the less the underside bunching. My only problem now is that I have the top tension at max (10), and I am getting 97% good stitches. I imaging an 11 or 12 would get me 100%

Only problem is that there is no 11 or 12... So I am thinking that my top tension adjuster is bad, worn out spring perhaps? I'm going to see if I can replace the assembly before I start sewing my $1000 boat canvas. I finally see light at the end of the tunnel!

Thanks again for all the helpful suggestions.

One more request: A recommendation for a good place to buy a tension assembly online? :-)

Edit: Never mind. I found one on singeronline for a whopping $6.00!

miriam

Here is a link for rebuilding your tension. Some times if the spring is dead or just out of it's setting it will not adjust. This manual is the best I know of. I have walked through with this one and gotten several fixed very quickly. A new tension may or may not fix the 'real' problem. If you do rebuild, go slowly and carefully follow the directions. Keep track of the parts Here is a link to the tension repair manual: http://www.tfsr.org/pub/technical_in...echanism_2.pdf ALSO www.sew-classic.com has the spring for less than $1 - Jenny has other parts as well - great service, too.