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Thread: Vintage Sewing Machine Shop.....Come on in and sit a spell

  1. #35401
    Super Member irishrose's Avatar
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    Candace, I will try to get a picture and, yes, it is an original Singer foot pedal and cord. That's one reason I doubt that it was 'new' in December 2010.

    In the meantime, how do I FMQ my daughter's quilt? I am nearly finished. Try my 15 clone? The Universal. the MW and the Admiral all have vertical bobbins. Whoops, scratch the Admiral. It's foot pedal is the old white ceramic type Kathy said to replace and it has overheated once.

  2. #35402
    Super Member J Miller's Avatar
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    irishrose,

    You need to wire it just like it was. It looks complicated but the way it's done allows everything to work properly.

    QuilterMomma,

    The foot controllers Sew-Classic sells do not look like OEM units, but they work the same. They use two wires that simply connect with screws inside.
    The hardest part to putting on a new foot controller is putting in the stress relief or tying an underwriters knot.

    Joe

  3. #35403
    Super Member irishrose's Avatar
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    Joe, it doesn't look complicated. Pretty straight forward if there had been three wires and three terminals, but the two wires twisted together on one terminal threw me off. They came up either side of the terminal and were twisted together at the top of it.

  4. #35404
    Super Member Candace's Avatar
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    Rose, use your 15 clone until you get it done. They're great at FMQing. They probably told you it was new because it's been newly rewired. I'm not going to tell you to do it just like it was...because something wasn't right, hence your sparks and all that. Nope, I need to see pictures. :>

  5. #35405
    Super Member irishrose's Avatar
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    Name:  301 wiring.jpg
Views: 921
Size:  1.60 MBName:  301 terminal - blurry.jpg
Views: 960
Size:  985.4 KBHere are two pictures. Sorry, the one is blurry. The terminals are numbered 1, 2 and 3. 1 and 3 each have one wire that leads to the wall plug as a normal two wire cord. terminal 2 is the one with the two wires on it that lead to a normal two wire cord to the foot controller. They are the two wires sticking up in the clear picture. The burned spot in the cord was not inside the plug. All four wires have way more copper showing than I am comfortable with. Very strange. I've always thought it was one wire to one pin. Period.

  6. #35406
    Super Member jlhmnj's Avatar
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    Irishrose,

    Them cords are a PITA to rewire, best bet is to get a new two lead cord. Just verify the cord was the problem (Black marks where there was wire to wire contact) and not something inside the machine.

    Jon

  7. #35407
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    Quote Originally Posted by irishrose View Post
    Name:  301 wiring.jpg
Views: 921
Size:  1.60 MBName:  301 terminal - blurry.jpg
Views: 960
Size:  985.4 KBHere are two pictures. Sorry, the one is blurry. The terminals are numbered 1, 2 and 3. 1 and 3 each have one wire that leads to the wall plug as a normal two wire cord. terminal 2 is the one with the two wires on it that lead to a normal two wire cord to the foot controller. They are the two wires sticking up in the clear picture. The burned spot in the cord was not inside the plug. All four wires have way more copper showing than I am comfortable with. Very strange. I've always thought it was one wire to one pin. Period.
    My old Kenmore & White have a 3 prong plug. 1 terminal has 1 wire to the wall plug. Another terminal has 1 wire to the foot control. And there is a wire from the foot control AND a wire from the wall plug on another. I don't remember which order it was in offhand (& your's is a different machine anyway)...I just wired it as it was. BUT if 1 of your terminals had 2 wires from the same cord (" terminal 2 is the one with the two wires on it that lead to a normal two wire cord to the foot controller"), it was wired wrong so don't rewire it as it was! 2 wires from the same cord touching each other WILL short out!

    You've got to figure, there are 4 wires & 3 terminals...one of them has to have 2 wires.

    I'm sure there's a wiring diagram online someplace... or email Sew Classic...she'll tell you how to do it.
    Last edited by path49; 06-06-2012 at 11:11 PM.

  8. #35408
    Super Member J Miller's Avatar
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    Irish Rose,

    Yes, Jon is right to a point, they are a PITA to rewire, but not that hard really.

    It took me about three months and three or four rewirings before I actually had a mental grasp on this 4 wires to 3 connectors design.

    The plug you show disassembled is only half of the circuit. So you are not seeing the whole picture. I have several wiring diagrams that I've collected printed out, but no URL for me to refer you to. They are on my dead PC.
    OK, I found one of them. http://www.treadleon.net/sewingmachi...ng/wiring.html

    If your machine was running correctly before the wire shorted out, just rewire it as it was.

    I hate working on 110/120 V electric stuff so if I can do it, so can you.

    ~Or~

    Go to Sew-Classic and buy a replacement set and send me the burned out one. I can use the parts.

    Joe

  9. #35409
    Super Member SewExtremeSeams's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by J Miller View Post
    QuilterMomma,

    You can get new foot controllers at Sew-Classic.com http://www.shop.sew-classic.com/ .
    They are not that expensive and they are easy to install.

    Joe

    QuilterMomma, Joe's suggestion was going to be my suggestion also. I contacted Jenny yesterday about a replacement cord for my 70's Bernina Record 830. And, even though she doesn't have it listed on her site she is locating it for me. She is super to deal with and very reasonable with her pricing.

    Linda

    Amazing Grace, how sweet the sound, that saved a wretch like me. I once was lost but now am found, was blind, but now I see.
    [John Newton (1725-1807)]

    http://sewextremeseams.blogspot.com/

  10. #35410
    Super Member J Miller's Avatar
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    OK, I scanned in the three wiring diagrams I have.
    >The first one is a generic drawing that applies to most machines. It's fairly easy to follow. If you refer to it when you look at the two Singer diagrams it might help.
    >The second one is the diagram to the 221 series machines. It shows how the block on the machine and the cord is wired. The biggest difference between the 221 and other Singers is the 221 has a separate switch between the block and the light. Most other Singers have the switch at the light. The cord side will be the same.
    >The third picture show the different ways Singer wired the machines. The top motor is like yours. All the wires go to a separate two piece junction block. The bottom motor does not have a junction block, all it's wires are hard wired together with screw connectors.


    The thing is, all the circuits shown in these drawings are the same. It's easier to understand if you print out the drawings and put them right next to your actual wiring project.

    I hope this helps some.

    Joe
    Attached Images Attached Images



  11. #35411
    Super Member chris_quilts's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Candace View Post
    Just know that the cases can cost more than the machine or cabinet!
    Yes I am aware of that. I did check the New Home. It has 3 metal feet on the bottom in a triangular shape but don't know if they are longer than the bobbin housing are is long. Will have to check that out. She just may have to take the machine in the cabinet and then find her own case if she doesn't want the cabinet. I will make sure that the machine works and is cleaned up for her.
    I meant to behave......but there were too many other options

  12. #35412
    Super Member irishrose's Avatar
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    Okay, basically Joe's diagrams (those are wonderful, thank you) and path49's directions are the same. No two wires from the same cord on the same pin. That's where the mistake was. Luckily, I have no light wiring involved - it's internal, so I should be able to handle this. It's too bad my son is working in southern Ohio. He's my fix it person.

    So the bare copper wires can touch as long as they aren't from the same cord. That's what was freaking me out. I have always been careful to not let uncovered wires touch. Thank you, everyone.

  13. #35413
    Super Member Candace's Avatar
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    Rose, by looking at your photos, it seems that it was wired correctly, but that one of more of the wires came loose off of the contact. If it came lose from jiggling it on and off the machine, it likely was just not wired stable enough. You can redo it and just make sure you screw them in tight. And in the future, just be gentle putting in on and off the machine.

    These are great controls and I would never want any other type controller on any of my 301's.

    I don't see a problem with too much copper showing. This is typical. I can't really see any burned areas in your photos.

    If you want me to Rose, I can take apart one of my controllers and post a photo, but it looks like it was just lose wiring.

  14. #35414
    Senior Member melinda1962's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by irishrose View Post
    Joe, it doesn't look complicated. Pretty straight forward if there had been three wires and three terminals, but the two wires twisted together on one terminal threw me off. They came up either side of the terminal and were twisted together at the top of it.
    That terminal is the one that provide power to both the light, straight forward, and to the motor through the foot control. It sounds harder than it is.
    Melinda

  15. #35415
    Super Member jlhmnj's Avatar
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    Yep, keep the controller. Either put the jumbo of wires back in the connector sandwich (after correctly rewiring) or buy a new cord.

    Jon
    Last edited by jlhmnj; 06-07-2012 at 08:38 AM.

  16. #35416
    Super Member jlhmnj's Avatar
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    Got my Davis Unique today. Seller packed way better than I expected using bubble wrap and foam. I got lucky on missing parts---the Minnesota A slide plate fit, had a replace shuttle, and part of the shuttle carrier broke off and I had one from the same Minnesota A parts. The birds were singing for me today.

    Jon


    Quote Originally Posted by jlhmnj View Post
    Added to the Davis collection with this Underfeed off ebay. I'm hoping my Minnesota A front slide plate will work for it and I have a shuttle in case its missing (hard to tell). I believe this was made around 1900 and according to my new old Excelsior sewing machine materials catalog from c. 1908, this is a Model H, which I've never heard of before.

    http://www.ebay.com/itm/160810532402...#ht_500wt_1158

    Jon

  17. #35417
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    Hey everyone- all this talk of wiring made me go look at my teeny little National Montgomery Wards machine I need to re wire. It was in a cabinet, to a knee control, and I had planned to rewire it to a motor block configuration. I just realized that the machine has no light, and it looks like no where to put one! Guess that's one less thing to wire, but makes me think i should just spray paint a foot controller to match and wire it straight to that. It also needs a base, and I'm collecting opinions on whetherName:  2012-05-24 13.27.37.jpg
Views: 224
Size:  90.6 KB I should paint the base teal or tiffany blue.

  18. #35418
    Super Member jljack's Avatar
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    Jon, congrats on the Davis Unique....cute machine. How did you know it was a Davis badge?

  19. #35419
    Super Member jljack's Avatar
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    Laura, that MW is so cute...is it 3/4? Love the "muscular" look to it!! Maybe it needs a guy's name???

  20. #35420
    Super Member QuilterMomma's Avatar
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    Thank you for the help. Got a foot pedal here locally, found a store with one, and wired it up and machine running along now. I appreciate your advisement and it is so nice to know where one can go to keep these beauties stitching along.
    Life is short, live it while you still can. QuilterMomma

  21. #35421
    Super Member Candace's Avatar
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    I am pooped. I'm supposed to be getting ready to move my daughter back from college and what do I do? Take apart two sewing machines. Yesterday, I disassembled the transmission/cogs and gears from my Viking as there were problems with the mechanism. Took me all day yesterday to get it right. Of course I thought, I'd better take apart the tensioner and make sure that' s fine and clean the motor, since I've already spent so much time on the machine.

    Then today, I installed a bobbin retriever on my Elna Carina and thought, "you should really remove the motor and check the carbon brushes". So, off go all the belts, out comes the motor...took me several hours. I'm filthy, my fingers and hands are sore and I'm tired. But a good tired. Both machines are humming and ready to go. Me, I'm ready for a nap:>

  22. #35422
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    Quote Originally Posted by jljack View Post
    Laura, that MW is so cute...is it 3/4? Love the "muscular" look to it!! Maybe it needs a guy's name???
    Ohhh, if it's a guy sewing machine, maybe his base should be international orange or john deere green? I think I'll call him Hank....

  23. #35423
    Super Member jlhmnj's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by jljack View Post
    Jon, congrats on the Davis Unique....cute machine. How did you know it was a Davis badge?
    Janice,

    Unique is a popular Davis badge sort of like Honeymoon. Davis just seems to have a style all their own and not difficult to distinguish between other models, especially with the square looking needle plate.

    Jon

  24. #35424
    Power Poster miriam's Avatar
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    It's industrial: good price too http://stlouis.craigslist.org/for/3063506236.html
    NEVER let a sewing machine know you are in a hurry.
    good mothers let you lick the beaters - great mothers turn it off first

  25. #35425
    Super Member chris_quilts's Avatar
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    HELP!!! Am working on the "Light Running New Home" e-machine. No manual. Have a plug for which I can find no place to plug it in. It has the female end and there appear to be no lonlely boys looking for a mate. I also have a flat spot in the pulley on the handwheel - that pulley appears to drive the motor. Thjis is in a cabinet which is knee operated and as far as i can see there is no male end there, either.
    Serial # is HR424585
    Last edited by chris_quilts; 06-07-2012 at 05:25 PM.
    I meant to behave......but there were too many other options

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