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Thread: Vintage Sewing Machine Shop Machine Photos

  1. #2051
    Senior Member grant15clone's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by SteveH View Post
    fantastic!!!!
    Thank you Steve. Coming from you it is a great compliment. I haven't been here for a while and thought that I would post something. I posted yesterday in the 15 Clone pix of another machine I did this past week too. Another dirty girl that cleaned up nicely. That one was a Turquoise machine.
    ~G~

  2. #2052
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    A great clean up job s usual!
    Helen Ann

  3. #2053
    Super Member manicmike's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by grant15clone View Post
    Back before and after. (huge transformation)
    Yes it is! What did you use to polish it?
    Singers: model 12 MOP (1885) Improved Family 29k58 (1939) 44K11 (1921) 201K2, 201K23 206k11 (1950) 222k (1959) 320k2(1959), 15K90, Bernina 530, Pfaff:360 (1959) http://tailororfailure.blogspot.com

  4. #2054
    Senior Member grant15clone's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by manicmike View Post
    Yes it is! What did you use to polish it?
    Thank you HelenAnn.
    For the most part I used car wax to clean up the paint, and metal polish on the plated parts.
    ~G~

  5. #2055
    Senior Member 4dogs's Avatar
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    it looks wonderful........it car wax safe to use? will it hurt the decalls?
    Judy, retired RN, alias 4 dogs and in the mountains of western North Carolina.

    Someday you will be a memory - try to make it a good one .

  6. #2056
    Super Member Rose_P's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by psychonurse View Post
    other than New National what is this? My friend gave it to me.
    Psychonurse, you'll be getting better answers from some of the more knowledgeable people around here, but since I was reading up on New Home today, I can add this link http://needlebar.org/nbwiki/index.ph...achine_Company which mentions that the New National was the predecessor of the New Home U model.

    I was reading that because I happened to buy one today that I think is an R1. I'm a little embarrassed to admit I bought it, but it was sitting on Craigslist for weeks unclaimed because someone glued a teddy bear, doily and a floral arrangement on it. It's just hot melt glue, and I might remove all that, Or might not even bother. In can be a "cute" reminder that I probably should curb my impulses. All the parts from under the bed are missing (Yes, I knew that when I bought it.) Other than that, there is more that is intact than I expected. I figured the bear was hiding a big break and major rust, but it's not. Nothing is missing above the bed except for the bobbin tire and belt, and of course a good deal of decal. I can't move the stop motion screw, and nothing moves. There are no attachments other than the straight stitch foot, and there's no cabinet or case. It's been maimed and cannibalized but it won't get any worse in my care.

    I was pleased to find the user manual for my machine on the Smithsonian website. Maybe you'll have similar luck. I don't know how to negotiate that site but landed directly on the item I wanted from Google.
    "Those who can make you believe absurdities can make you commit atrocities." - Voltaire

  7. #2057
    Senior Member grant15clone's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by 4dogs View Post
    it looks wonderful........it car wax safe to use? will it hurt the decalls?
    SMO (Sewing Machine Oil) is safe to use on almost any machine in almost any condition. Car wax is better if the condition of the paint is good or new. It is even good on plastic machines (so I hear. lol). Car wax CAN, on certain finishes "Fog" or give a milky cloudiness to the painted finish. It is not common, but it can happen. Most newer machines and ones with a good surface will look their best with car wax IMHO. ALWAYS test it in a inconspicuous place first in a small area. Wax, wipe, buff, and see how it looks. If it is good and there are no problems, continue working in small areas at a time until the machine is all cleaned and waxed. I have had some machines where the bed was fine but the body would fog, and visa versa. Just take it slow and pay attention. IF you fog the paint with car wax all you have to do is wipe it with SMO and it will look the same. If you use SMO to clean and shine your machine, you will have to wipe off the excess oil before you sew on it or it may stain your material.
    I hope this helps.
    ~Grant~

  8. #2058
    Power Poster miriam's Avatar
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    If it is old and black with shellac do not use car wax
    NEVER let a sewing machine know you are in a hurry.
    good mothers let you lick the beaters - great mothers turn it off first

  9. #2059
    Senior Member grant15clone's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by miriam View Post
    If it is old and black with shellac do not use car wax
    On some you can , but you have to test it first.
    Grant.

  10. #2060
    Super Member manicmike's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by miriam View Post
    If it is old and black with shellac do not use car wax
    Miriam, is that because it turns it green?
    Singers: model 12 MOP (1885) Improved Family 29k58 (1939) 44K11 (1921) 201K2, 201K23 206k11 (1950) 222k (1959) 320k2(1959), 15K90, Bernina 530, Pfaff:360 (1959) http://tailororfailure.blogspot.com

  11. #2061
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    Grant
    Would you share your cleaning & polishing method with us?l

    Miriam,
    What do you use if not car wax?
    Maria
    Smoky Mountains of Tennessee

  12. #2062
    Senior Member grant15clone's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Farmhousesewer View Post
    Grant
    Would you share your cleaning & polishing method with us?l

    Miriam,
    What do you use if not car wax?
    This is from my page.
    ~Grant~
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  13. #2063
    Super Member ArchaicArcane's Avatar
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    It should also be noted that not all waxes are equal. A high quality pure Caranuba Wax should have little to no water in it and should do little to no harm to even a shellac finish assuming a good application method. A low cost wax often has other substances in it to "cut" the wax and cut the cost and those will almost definitely do damage. All of the good waxes I've used have been thick and waxy feeling.

  14. #2064
    Super Member SteveH's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by ArchaicArcane View Post
    ... A high quality pure Caranuba Wax should have little to no water in it and should do little to no harm to even a shellac finish assuming a good application method.
    interesting... I buy 100% pure Caranuba in flake form in a 10 lb box (to mix with beeswax for hardening leather armor) I wonder what it would take to make it into a usable protective wax for sewing machines.....

  15. #2065
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    Grant
    Thanks for sharing.
    It is amazing how clean you get the underside. Is it safe to use the metal cleaner products there also? I have been reluctant to use steel wool, wire brushes, polishes etc. on the underside of a machine. I generally stick to kerosene there and get of the gook, but it never looks like yours! Am I being overly cautious?

    I have never been successful in using just oil on a sewing machine head. Will have to try it again.
    Maria
    Smoky Mountains of Tennessee

  16. #2066
    Super Member ArchaicArcane's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by SteveH View Post
    interesting... I buy 100% pure Caranuba in flake form in a 10 lb box (to mix with beeswax for hardening leather armor) I wonder what it would take to make it into a usable protective wax for sewing machines.....
    I would definitely be interested in hearing what you figure out. I Have a bottle of Mequires or Mothers or something here that will last my lifetime. Used to use it on the bikes til I discovered the Honda Spray Cleaner and Polish. That stuff is scary good. Scary because it liquifies bugs on contact and still polishes even scratches that I thought would never go away. The liquifying part is why I won't go near a sewing machine with it though.

  17. #2067
    Senior Member grant15clone's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Farmhousesewer View Post
    Grant
    Thanks for sharing.
    It is amazing how clean you get the underside. Is it safe to use the metal cleaner products there also? I have been reluctant to use steel wool, wire brushes, polishes etc. on the underside of a machine. I generally stick to kerosene there and get of the gook, but it never looks like yours! Am I being overly cautious?

    I have never been successful in using just oil on a sewing machine head. Will have to try it again.
    Yesterday I did this on a Singer 128. I used a small wire wheel on my Dremel to clean the metal and Meguire's wax on the painted surfaces. I put some SMO on a Q-Tip to get in the corners where the casting was rough. I think that the results speak for themselves. This is before and after, and yes, it is the same machine.
    ~Grant~
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  18. #2068
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    Grant, WOW. You are amazing! And you are not taking it apart? How do you reach all of those nooks and crannies? I can't even do so with a toothbrush and kerosene! Do you do any special cleaning to make sure the little wire pieces and cleaner are not left, especially on moving parts, joints etc? I have had a setup ready to do that, but those wire brushes losing pieces scares me.

    If I understood you correctly, you implied that the electric Dremels are too fast. I have a multispeed with a flex shaft. Is it that it would still be too fast, or is there something else about the rechargeable that I am missing?

    Thanks for your time and patience. I realize this is your business and I am taking you away from it.
    Maria
    Smoky Mountains of Tennessee

  19. #2069
    Senior Member grant15clone's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Farmhousesewer View Post
    Grant, WOW. You are amazing! And you are not taking it apart? How do you reach all of those nooks and crannies? I can't even do so with a toothbrush and kerosene! Do you do any special cleaning to make sure the little wire pieces and cleaner are not left, especially on moving parts, joints etc? I have had a setup ready to do that, but those wire brushes losing pieces scares me.

    If I understood you correctly, you implied that the electric Dremels are too fast. I have a multispeed with a flex shaft. Is it that it would still be too fast, or is there something else about the rechargeable that I am missing?

    Thanks for your time and patience. I realize this is your business and I am taking you away from it.
    Wow, thank you for such kind words. I did remove the two bolts that hold the Feed Dog actuating arm (don't know it's proper name) to be able to clean it properly. It also makes it a lot easier to clean the underside of the bed too. This is a picture as I was working on it. It also allows you to get at that bearing. Quite often they are seized up like this one was.

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    As for the Dremel, I believe that about 10,000 to 15,000 RPMs is about right. So you should be ok with what you have. Most corded single speed Dremels run at a much higher speed, about 30,000 RPMs and that is too fast. Most of the cordless ones at a much slower speed. Polishing compound flies off and makes a mess when you use a buffing wheel at that higher speed. And the wire wheel spits out the wires faster at that speed. And those small wires HURT (!!!) when they get stuck in your foot. Occupational hazard. I just keep my tweezers handy.
    And you can always PM me if you have a question. I am always happy to help.
    ~Grant~

  20. #2070
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    Grant,
    Thank you, so much, for your offer.

    Think I need to buy armor for when those wire pieces go flying. Already have a face guard

    I am generally not one to disconnect. Not really mechanically inclined! When you disconnect the feed dogs, don't you then have to retime?

    Can you please share where you buy the buffing pads. The ones I purchased are fluffy and/or cotton. The ones you use look denser. Cannot seem to find them.

    Thanks,
    Maria
    Smoky Mountains of Tennessee

  21. #2071
    Power Poster miriam's Avatar
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    I use an electric Dremmel but I have it plugged into a sewing machine foot control which is plugged into a dimmer swithch - it goes plenty slow and the Dremmel was inexpensive.
    NEVER let a sewing machine know you are in a hurry.
    good mothers let you lick the beaters - great mothers turn it off first

  22. #2072
    Senior Member grant15clone's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Farmhousesewer View Post
    Grant,
    Thank you, so much, for your offer.

    Think I need to buy armor for when those wire pieces go flying. Already have a face guard

    I am generally not one to disconnect. Not really mechanically inclined! When you disconnect the feed dogs, don't you then have to retime?

    Can you please share where you buy the buffing pads. The ones I purchased are fluffy and/or cotton. The ones you use look denser. Cannot seem to find them.

    Thanks,
    I use the Dremel brand ones I got a bag of 100 from Amazon. When you use them they change shape and color. I believe they are made out of wool felt and they do shed a bit at first. Especially if you do not have any metal polishing compound on it. And at the very least, eye protection is a MUST!
    As for the timing question, No, if you just disconnect those two bolts it will not have to be retimed.
    ~Grant~

  23. #2073
    Senior Member grant15clone's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by miriam View Post
    I use an electric Dremmel but I have it plugged into a sewing machine foot control which is plugged into a dimmer swithch - it goes plenty slow and the Dremmel was inexpensive.
    LOL Miriam!!! I have the same setup on my garage sale Dremel find, minus the dimmer.

    Here is a pic of what I use. (yes that is a dime under the pedal, holding it at the slowest speed) The Corded Dremel plugs into the motor side of the block. I use either Mother's Mag Wheel Polish or Jeweler's Rouge. The wire brush is also made by Dremel.

    -Tip, notice that I put a small section of a drinking straw on the shaft of the wire brush and the buffing wheel. That helps a LOT. It prevents the shaft from marring anything with the shaft.
    ~Grant~

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  24. #2074
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    100-year old lint and sticky stuff. The whole machine is coated in sticky orange stuff.
    I had to use a hairdryer to soften the goo to get the faceplate off.
    Attached Images Attached Images

  25. #2075
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    FYI Goo = Old Oil

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