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Thread: Vintage Sewing Machine Shop.....Come on in and sit a spell

  1. #39326
    Senior Member grant15clone's Avatar
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    Cathy, I was thinking about pulling this thing off and put the bobbin winder post part in my drill and filing it. But I was afraid of making it more egg shaped in the process. Leaving it in a machine is much wiser because of the stable platform it has. But the flat spot on mine combined with the dry brittle and cracked condition of mine made this option, and yours, not a good one for me. If it is just a flat spot, I would seriously think about what you are suggesting as an option. I guess maybe I should have mentioned this earlier. The rubber on mine was flat spotted, really dried out, and cracked. What I did was NOT an easy thing for me to do. I like the grove idea but there is such little clearance on this particular model, I am not sure it would have worked. I love Yankee ingenuity! ~G~
    Quote Originally Posted by Mizkaki View Post
    Joe and Grant,

    I have in the past resurrected a worn out motor pulley. I moved the pulley over along it's shaft until it's edge would make contact with the handwheel. I then ran the motor at a fast clip and 'gouged' a deep groove in the old pulley's middle with a rough file. The depth of this 'gouge' was the same as the inside diameter of a bobbinwinder tire or o-ring. Slip the tire or o-ring over the pulley and realign it to the handwheel. Works perfectly. Clear as mud?????

    Cathy

  2. #39327
    Super Member J Miller's Avatar
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    Cathy and Grant,

    One of my Machines, the Minnesota B uses a drive pulley with a grove for a belt and a friction drive wheel. The end is hollow and flared over the outer wheel. The rubber drive wheel between them. I removed the rubber drive wheel then pushed the outer metal wheel in and filed off the flared part. Removed the metal wheel, put 2 3/8" grommets on the shaft then put the outer metal wheel on and tightened the set screw. Works beautifully and is easily replaced when needed. One of these days though I'll try rubber hose or perhaps bobbin winding tires.

    Joe

  3. #39328
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    Joe,
    Picture please?

    Cathy

    Quote Originally Posted by J Miller View Post
    Cathy and Grant,

    One of my Machines, the Minnesota B uses a drive pulley with a grove for a belt and a friction drive wheel. The end is hollow and flared over the outer wheel. The rubber drive wheel between them. I removed the rubber drive wheel then pushed the outer metal wheel in and filed off the flared part. Removed the metal wheel, put 2 3/8" grommets on the shaft then put the outer metal wheel on and tightened the set screw. Works beautifully and is easily replaced when needed. One of these days though I'll try rubber hose or perhaps bobbin winding tires.

    Joe
    Cathy

    "Most sewing machine problems are due to the carbon based unit in the chair in front of the machine"

  4. #39329
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    Grant,
    I've used my method on very brittle, dried out rubber. I does work even then. Probably because the old rubber is only
    a place holder for the new tire, there are only light stresses on it. Probably much less stress than when it was driving the handwheel.
    That said I really like your rubber hose repair.

    I also really like Yankee ingenuity,
    Cathy

    Quote Originally Posted by grant15clone View Post
    Cathy, I was thinking about pulling this thing off and put the bobbin winder post part in my drill and filing it. But I was afraid of making it more egg shaped in the process. Leaving it in a machine is much wiser because of the stable platform it has. But the flat spot on mine combined with the dry brittle and cracked condition of mine made this option, and yours, not a good one for me. If it is just a flat spot, I would seriously think about what you are suggesting as an option. I guess maybe I should have mentioned this earlier. The rubber on mine was flat spotted, really dried out, and cracked. What I did was NOT an easy thing for me to do. I like the grove idea but there is such little clearance on this particular model, I am not sure it would have worked. I love Yankee ingenuity! ~G~
    Cathy

    "Most sewing machine problems are due to the carbon based unit in the chair in front of the machine"

  5. #39330
    Super Member J Miller's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by J Miller View Post
    Singer 500 is breaking it's top thread constantly.

    OK, machine is a derelict that someone has messed with a bit and has some missing parts.

    I have found enough parts to put it back in action:
    Oiled and greased everything that moves.
    Freed up the cam stack selectors.
    Cleaned the hook area and the bobbin case.
    Adjusted the bobbin case tension, there was none when I got it.
    Adjusted the top tension, it was too tight.
    Put in brand new unused needle.
    The needle to hook timing is good.
    The top and bobbin tension looks good when it sews.

    After about an inch or two you'll hear a crunch, then a couple more stitches another crunch and the top thread breaks.

    I'm not sure what's gonna become of this machine, but I want to see if I can make it sew before we make our decision.

    Anybody have any ideas on what else to look for?

    Joe

    Alright the problem is solved and it was none of the above. But in trying to diagnose the problems I did the following:
    Took apart the top tension assembly and cleaned it. Didn't have to, it wasn't the problem, but it never hurts.
    Cleaned the bobbin case and hook assembly again.
    I went hunting for a couple pics someone here on the forum emailed me of how to assemble the later top tensions. I didn't find it but I found out I had a 500 manual on my thumb drive. So I checked it out and found I had missed a complete step in threading the top end. I printed the page I needed then stood in front of our 401A while I double checked my assembly of the top tension.

    Went back downstairs put the tension unit in and rethreaded it correctly.
    Then I tried to sew and it made it a whole 3" then crunch and broke the thread. Over and over again my wife and I (she finally got in on the act) worked with the tensions, bobbin, and cleaning trying to find out what the heck it's problem was.

    Then it went crunch and just stopped. Rather than go again and break the thread I carefully removed the needle and needle plate to see where the jam up was. Well, the thread was wrapped around the bobbin case and then around the case support on the back side where the case sits. This didn't make sense at all.

    It was about then that I realized the bobbin case and hook assembly and the springy thing that holds the bobbin case in was the same as the 401A. So I went upstairs again and opened up the 401A and studied it. Hmmmmmmmm.

    Back downstairs to the 500. Make one adjustment and zoom zooom we're sewing. No broken threads, ZZ works, stitch patterns work, and I'm thrilled. I had to go back upstairs to get a slant shank special purpose foot to really try some patterns and when I did, the old lady made a few really nice stitches.

    Now, I'm gonna post a pic of the bobbin area and let you all try and figure out what I had to adjust to fix the problem.


    Joe

  6. #39331
    Super Member J Miller's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Mizkaki View Post
    Joe,
    Picture please?

    Cathy
    Cathy,

    I thought I had a pic of it but I didn't so I had to go take a couple.

    The first pick is a side view of the drive wheel with the two grommets in place of the original flat spotted friction drive. The set screw holds the drive wheel to the motor shaft.


    The second pic shows the hollow end with the flared part I filed away. The outer rim was held in by the flare only. The hole for the set screw shown here was there in both the outer rim and the shaft. All I did was put a set screw in it after putting in the grommets.


    Joe

  7. #39332
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    Joe,

    Here ya go. A picture comparing the the short Boye 2 1/2needle, the 15x1 needle , and the 206x13 needle.

    Name:  3 needles-1.jpg
Views: 199
Size:  73.4 KBName:  3 needles.jpg
Views: 192
Size:  56.7 KB

    Cathy

    Quote Originally Posted by J Miller View Post
    Cathy, I'll have to make a note of these numbers. The only other number besides the Kenmore 49 that I'd come up with is the Boye 2. Are the needles you're talking about flat shank or round shank, and do you have a pic of them? I'm curious as to what the point to the eye looks like. Joe
    Cathy

    "Most sewing machine problems are due to the carbon based unit in the chair in front of the machine"

  8. #39333
    Super Member J Miller's Avatar
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    Cathy,
    Thanks. I saved the pics and made and noted the needle numbers for future reference.

    Joe

  9. #39334
    Power Poster miriam's Avatar
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    I think I need a tutorial how to read the needles.
    BTW Where is everybody? It sure is quiet around here...
    NEVER let a sewing machine know you are in a hurry.
    good mothers let you lick the beaters - great mothers turn it off first

  10. #39335
    Super Member J Miller's Avatar
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    BOYE 2 = 40 F1 = 38 Y1 = CC

    BOYE 6 or 16 = 15 x 1 = AA

    I thiiiiink.

    Joe

  11. #39336
    Super Member J Miller's Avatar
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    Miriam,

    What, no guess on what I did to the 500?

    Joe

  12. #39337
    Senior Member grayhare's Avatar
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    I just thought I would post this, if anyone is close to this location.
    http://sfbay.craigslist.org/pen/zip/3403325601.html
    "A change of feeling is a change of destiny."
    -Neville-

  13. #39338
    Power Poster miriam's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by J Miller View Post
    Miriam,

    What, no guess on what I did to the 500?

    Joe
    probably had to snug it in to the spring
    NEVER let a sewing machine know you are in a hurry.
    good mothers let you lick the beaters - great mothers turn it off first

  14. #39339
    Super Member J Miller's Avatar
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    .............. which spring?


    Joe

  15. #39340
    Super Member BoJangles's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by J Miller View Post

    Alright the problem is solved and it was none of the above. But in trying to diagnose the problems I did the following:
    Took apart the top tension assembly and cleaned it. Didn't have to, it wasn't the problem, but it never hurts.
    Cleaned the bobbin case and hook assembly again.
    I went hunting for a couple pics someone here on the forum emailed me of how to assemble the later top tensions. I didn't find it but I found out I had a 500 manual on my thumb drive. So I checked it out and found I had missed a complete step in threading the top end. I printed the page I needed then stood in front of our 401A while I double checked my assembly of the top tension.

    Went back downstairs put the tension unit in and rethreaded it correctly.
    Then I tried to sew and it made it a whole 3" then crunch and broke the thread. Over and over again my wife and I (she finally got in on the act) worked with the tensions, bobbin, and cleaning trying to find out what the heck it's problem was.

    Then it went crunch and just stopped. Rather than go again and break the thread I carefully removed the needle and needle plate to see where the jam up was. Well, the thread was wrapped around the bobbin case and then around the case support on the back side where the case sits. This didn't make sense at all.

    It was about then that I realized the bobbin case and hook assembly and the springy thing that holds the bobbin case in was the same as the 401A. So I went upstairs again and opened up the 401A and studied it. Hmmmmmmmm.

    Back downstairs to the 500. Make one adjustment and zoom zooom we're sewing. No broken threads, ZZ works, stitch patterns work, and I'm thrilled. I had to go back upstairs to get a slant shank special purpose foot to really try some patterns and when I did, the old lady made a few really nice stitches.

    Now, I'm gonna post a pic of the bobbin area and let you all try and figure out what I had to adjust to fix the problem.


    Joe
    Joe, I have looked and looked - it is hard to tell from a photo. It looks ok. I am comparing your assembly area to my 503a - I don't see a difference?

    Nancy

  16. #39341
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    Joe,

    I sounds like you adjusted the escapement. The long spring on the BC retainer.

    Cathy
    Cathy

    "Most sewing machine problems are due to the carbon based unit in the chair in front of the machine"

  17. #39342
    Power Poster miriam's Avatar
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    Yeah - there is the one under the thing that holds it in place - some times those come out - kind of a PITB to mess with - I had one came with a screw missing holds that thing in - got one off my donor machine to fix it. That retaining device needs to have a bit of a spring to it or it sure doesn't work. Some times they just get out of place - someone pulls it all the way out and then can't get it back together or whatever the genius did to it.
    NEVER let a sewing machine know you are in a hurry.
    good mothers let you lick the beaters - great mothers turn it off first

  18. #39343
    Super Member J Miller's Avatar
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    Yep that was it. It had either been bent or more likely moved so there was a big gap between the spring and bobbin case. I closed it up and now it works.

    Joe

  19. #39344
    Super Member J Miller's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by BoJangles View Post
    Joe, I have looked and looked - it is hard to tell from a photo. It looks ok. I am comparing your assembly area to my 503a - I don't see a difference?

    Nancy
    Nancy, there is a spring finger on the part that holds the bobbin case in. It's the black part on the right of the case held on by the two screws. It had been moved to the right creating a big gap between the springy finger and bobbin case. I moved it back to match the one on my 401A and now it sews properly.

    Joe

  20. #39345
    Power Poster miriam's Avatar
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    The one I had was missing the screw on the bottom of the machine - holds it in chore to do, too.
    NEVER let a sewing machine know you are in a hurry.
    good mothers let you lick the beaters - great mothers turn it off first

  21. #39346
    Senior Member grant15clone's Avatar
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    Thanks for the lesson Joe. I may need this info in the future. ~G~
    Quote Originally Posted by J Miller View Post
    Nancy, there is a spring finger on the part that holds the bobbin case in. It's the black part on the right of the case held on by the two screws. It had been moved to the right creating a big gap between the springy finger and bobbin case. I moved it back to match the one on my 401A and now it sews properly.

    Joe

  22. #39347
    Super Member J Miller's Avatar
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    Grant,

    I've got a couple other Singers I'm gonna check to see if this might be parts of their problems too.

    .......................

    I checked my Dressmaker 7000 yesterday. The gears are in good shape and undamaged. I ran it for quite a while but could not figure out why it surges when a cam is in. I compared my machine to the pics you sent me and they are the same. I even took the spring off the cam follower and used my finger to push the follower to the cam. It still surged.
    So I put a stronger motor on it. No difference.

    I am officially stumped on this one. Looks like it just might have to go to the LSMG.

    Joe

  23. #39348
    Super Member craftiladi's Avatar
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    Joe huge thanks for sharing, I am scared to death to get that far in repairs-so afraid I won't be able to but parts back together. BTW-this machine is on my WANT list, i have already collected the manual & cams...did I see a 10.95 tag on the top of that pic?
    Dee Lowe
    Las Vegas Nv.

  24. #39349
    Super Member BoJangles's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by J Miller View Post
    Nancy, there is a spring finger on the part that holds the bobbin case in. It's the black part on the right of the case held on by the two screws. It had been moved to the right creating a big gap between the springy finger and bobbin case. I moved it back to match the one on my 401A and now it sews properly.

    Joe
    Thank you Joe, and thanks for the quiz! I had set my 503a on the computer table so I could compare my machine to your photo! I could not tell by looking at your photo what the problem was! Luckily I have a 503a, 2-401a's, and a 500a - but, none of them have ever had a problem with the horizontal rotary hook/bobbin assembly area! Now, if I get a horizontal rotary hook machine I will know what to look for if I do get one with issues!

    Nancy
    Last edited by BoJangles; 11-17-2012 at 06:41 AM.

  25. #39350
    Super Member BoJangles's Avatar
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    Anyone on here have a Pfaff 30 treadle or a Pfaff 30 motorized machine? What can you tell us about it?

    Nancy

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