That is a great idea! I just used the permanent fabric marking pen, but I like this idea.Originally Posted by BoJangles
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That is a great idea! I just used the permanent fabric marking pen, but I like this idea.Originally Posted by BoJangles
My husband just bought me a sewing machine at a yard sale the serial number is AE639530. I find out it was made in the 30s but dont know how to figure the model no. Can anyone help?
I too thought at first this was a reproduction. Very pretty machine and the decals are gorgeous.Originally Posted by Kitzone
While browsing in an antique shop today I came across some Singer buttonholers. Both are complete sets, including manuals. One has the Singer Brand on it, it's manual has a 1948 copyright, and it is priced at $7.50. The second one is in a Singer case, has a manual distributed by Singer, a 1956 copyright, but the brand name on the buttonholer & manual is Griest. It's price is $15.00.
What I'm wondering is if either one of these will work for my Featherweight and/or 15-91? If yes, which one would you get?
Singer 15. Here is the link to the page with info:http://www.singerco.com/support/serial_2letter.html. FindOriginally Posted by phyllis b
column on right with red lettering, and then click on AE series, then scroll through to find group where your number falls into:
AE-618391-658390 15 40000 September 1 1937
Here is my latest quilt, Eagle Scout quilt, that I pieced with my Eldredge Two Spools, quilted with Singer 201K, attached binding with Davis NVF, and finished off with decorative stitch from Singer 238K- all in treadles. I love my vintage machines and treadling them!
http://www.quiltingboard.com/t-124834-1.htm
While trying to pass the time in the hospital, following a total knee replacement, I kept-up as much of my computer routine as possible, which meant watching CL in several near-by cities. Lo and behold, a Singer 301 for $150. I promptly e-mailed, explained my situation, and asked the seller if the machine could be held while I arranged for someone to pick it up in my behalf. Multiple e-mails to seller and friend and finally got a message from the friend, "Got it."
I'm home now, and can't wait to see the friend and the new machine. I can do the upper body happy dance, the lower bod will have to wait a while.
Hi, I'm the lady with the blackside 15-91. The normal chrome parts of a 15 are all blackside on this machine (face plate, back cover plate, throat, nobbies, feet, etc.) Apparently, not so many of the 15s were outfitted this way, compared to say... the 127s.Originally Posted by Lostn51
Seems like everyone is correct. lol. A true (?) blackside machine had all the chrome pieces in the black finish just like Nancy/Billy said. But then it also seems as if Singer had a storehouse of blackside parts and attachments that continued to be put on machines after the war, even when the machines had other chrome parts. Attachments were made out of partial chrome/blackside bits, and blackside attachments can be seen with non-blackside machines.
A good example is the adjustable binder. Ever notice how you can find that old singer part in all chrome, all blackside, or 1/2 and 1/2 where part of the attachment is chrome and another section of it is blackside??? I have all three in my 'attachment collection' as it were. Singer also, I believe, when they got back to making sewing machines after the war effort, did a lot of refurbishing of machines. Could be that blackside bits, parts, attachments were put on the earlier models during their factory 'refurbishment'. But that is just my conjecture, I do not know for sure. Singer factory history is pretty interesting. I would love to have one of the very few Singer guns.... but that is a WHOLE 'nother thread!
"You will be limited to smaller thread sizes (#92 top and & #69/92 bobbin) The machine you asked about is almost a century old shoe patcher. It has a tiny bobbin and produces very short stitches once you exceed 1/8" of leather. If the foot drive mechanism is worn out you may not get better than 7 or 8 stitches per inch. Its thickness limit is 1/4" under the foot.Originally Posted by Minnesota newbie
If you can try the machine before you buy it, do so. If the drive puck is worn out (very short stitches at max setting) and the moving parts are rusty, pass on it. If the seller wants more than $100 - $200, pass on it." This is what I found on it.
you can take it to a rebuild motor shop and they will rework it for youOriginally Posted by SnowQuilt