Vintage Sewing Machine Shop.....Come on in and sit a spell
01-25-2011, 04:07 PM
#8851
Super Member
Join Date: Sep 2010
Posts: 4,972
[quote=Miz Johnny]
The National pictured was cleaned with GoJo (no pumice) and waxed with Armour All; using 3 coats and letting it dry completely between coats. I have never had any trouble using GoJo on heads, but obviously, I am careful when cleaning. The first machine I cleaned up, a Red Eye (and unfortunately, a family machine) had a bit of decal damage, as I used some water on it. Not a good choice, and I never tried that again--but that was back before I knew how to go about it. I do believe that more damage is caused by aggressive cleaning than the cleaners themselves.
I also think there's more than one "good" way to clean, so if you have one and it works, then use it!! TR 3 is a good cleaner/polisher, but to me it takes forever. I have used it on more modern machines (from the 40s and 50s) with great results. Harry Berzack's curator uses a spray foam on all of the machines. I can't remember the name right off hand, but it makes most of us gasp. He says he has no trouble with it, though!!
Carter Bays doesn't clean his at all. His machines are complete with original spider webs. They aren't used, so I guess that makes sense. Whatever works.
Thank you Miz Johnny for this post. This is the information that is helpful, even if each machine is different and everyone doesn't their own method. I would stop now in my cleaning, but I wish to protect my decals since I plan on using my Davis. Otherwise I would be like Carter Bays, dirty machine with preserved decals.:)
Originally Posted by BoJangles
The National pictured was cleaned with GoJo (no pumice) and waxed with Armour All; using 3 coats and letting it dry completely between coats. I have never had any trouble using GoJo on heads, but obviously, I am careful when cleaning. The first machine I cleaned up, a Red Eye (and unfortunately, a family machine) had a bit of decal damage, as I used some water on it. Not a good choice, and I never tried that again--but that was back before I knew how to go about it. I do believe that more damage is caused by aggressive cleaning than the cleaners themselves.
I also think there's more than one "good" way to clean, so if you have one and it works, then use it!! TR 3 is a good cleaner/polisher, but to me it takes forever. I have used it on more modern machines (from the 40s and 50s) with great results. Harry Berzack's curator uses a spray foam on all of the machines. I can't remember the name right off hand, but it makes most of us gasp. He says he has no trouble with it, though!!
Carter Bays doesn't clean his at all. His machines are complete with original spider webs. They aren't used, so I guess that makes sense. Whatever works.
01-25-2011, 04:17 PM
#8852
Super Member
Join Date: Apr 2010
Location: Rescue, California
Posts: 4,585
Originally Posted by Grandmother23
This weekend I found a Spartan for $20 that says 192K on the thread stitch length area. The wheel turns, but that is all, nothing else. The lady wanted $55 for it. I can't get it out of the "bed" it is in to look for any numbers, not sure were to look. I bought 4 machines this weekend. A Spartan, a Wizard, a Singer 99K-, and Kenmore all for $90. Not certain if I paid too much, but I am learning. My sister gave me a Singer with the cabinet. Nothing special that I can tell yet. LOL And it all started with someone giving me a 99K in a cabinet last week.
Pictures later.
Pictures later.
Did you unscrew the screw on the bottom of the case to try and get the Spartan out of the case? I don't remember my Spartan being a problem getting out of the case. It just sat in there. That machine is small but heavy! They are made to last, though, like all the old machines!
Congratulations on all your new toys!
Nancy
01-25-2011, 05:21 PM
#8853
Senior Member
Join Date: Feb 2010
Location: Port Sulphur, LA
Posts: 313
Originally Posted by BoJangles
Originally Posted by Grandmother23
This weekend I found a Spartan for $20 that says 192K on the thread stitch length area. The wheel turns, but that is all, nothing else. The lady wanted $55 for it. I can't get it out of the "bed" it is in to look for any numbers, not sure were to look. I bought 4 machines this weekend. A Spartan, a Wizard, a Singer 99K-, and Kenmore all for $90. Not certain if I paid too much, but I am learning. My sister gave me a Singer with the cabinet. Nothing special that I can tell yet. LOL And it all started with someone giving me a 99K in a cabinet last week.
Pictures later.
Pictures later.
Did you unscrew the screw on the bottom of the case to try and get the Spartan out of the case? I don't remember my Spartan being a problem getting out of the case. It just sat in there. That machine is small but heavy! They are made to last, though, like all the old machines!
Congratulations on all your new toys!
Nancy
13
Did a little research and can't find much. Will keep looking.
01-25-2011, 05:37 PM
#8854
Super Member
Join Date: Nov 2010
Location: Cadillac, MI
Posts: 6,487
Thank you, everyone. I will try a Schmertz needle again. I'd rather use one because they are so much stronger.
01-25-2011, 06:54 PM
#8855
Super Member
Join Date: Apr 2010
Location: Rescue, California
Posts: 4,585
Originally Posted by Miz Johnny
TR 3 is a good cleaner/polisher, but to me it takes forever. I have used it on more modern machines (from the 40s and 50s) with great results. Harry Berzack's curator uses a spray foam on all of the machines. I can't remember the name right off hand, but it makes most of us gasp. He says he has no trouble with it, though!!
Carter Bays doesn't clean his at all. His machines are complete with original spider webs. They aren't used, so I guess that makes sense. Whatever works.
I have decided to put a light coat of the TR3 on all my machines just to protect the decals from futher damage. I am afraid that if I clean the machines with anything else, the decals will eventually get corroded.
Monica, you have been pretty quiet, but don't you think if we use sewing machine oil - and don't get all of it off - that eventually the oil will eat through the decals? I would think anything, even Liquid Gold sitting on the decals would eventually eat through? I really like the way the machines look when they are cleaned with sewing machine oil, but the oil attracts cat hair and makes the machines messy to use.
Cleaning with the TR3 is a lot of work, but once the cleaner wax coat is on the machine it is much easier to keep the machine clean. The machines don't attract dirt, hair, etc.
My thoughts -- any others have an opinion? Since I ruined the decals on my Davis, I am very leary of anything. Maybe, Carter Bays has the best idea!
Nancy
01-25-2011, 07:19 PM
#8856
Super Member
Join Date: Apr 2010
Location: Rescue, California
Posts: 4,585
Billy, Miz Johnny or anyone else, would a bobbin winder for a Singer model 127 work on a Singer Model 27? I have a friend who needs a bobbin winder for her 27 and there is a bobbin winder on E-bay for a 127. I thought the only difference between a 127 and 27 was where the bobbin winder in located, but does that make the bobbin winders different?
Nancy
Nancy
01-25-2011, 07:27 PM
#8857
Senior Member
Join Date: Dec 2010
Location: Coastal Florida
Posts: 946
I so relate...
I just unearthed my Singer 66-16 (according to it's manual) and opened up the cabinet, got it set up to run. Still need to oil it first. I had had it serviced about 9 years ago, haven't sewed on it since. They redid all the electric.
Here's the kicker. I don't understand it. My S/N is AC746635, right in the middle of a run of 1929 66's it says according to the Singer website. Note in the last picture... that the last 2 digits of the SN are strange - they are not cut into the brass as deeply - very noticable. Why would that be. Almost looks like the last two digits were stamped into the brass by hand.
So the manual and the S/N both say, 66 BUT... there's no up/down lever with markings for the backtack/stitch length. Instead there's a big honking screw to adjust. Then I noticed that the bobbin winder affair is a big complicated mesh of gears that rides up by the wheel, and not down further as is on the 66-16. I thought, what??? That's not a 66-16, no matter what the manual says.
So I looked on sandman's site to identify. It looks like the 3/4 99-13... EXCEPT... it's got the 66-16 face plate (both flat and rounded, swirlies). Both machines (and mine) have the foot attachment screw on the side. And the D needle plate. I measured from the edge of the needle, along the bed, to the most inward edge of the column - it's 8" exactly, Full bed size is 14.5" x 7"deep (not including the black plate that fills in where (I guess) a treadle belt could be used... So that tends to be a full size bed - I think. Looks like a pristine Filligree pattern. See the pictures...
What the heck have I got here???? Some sort of weird hybrid? Thanks for the help!
I just unearthed my Singer 66-16 (according to it's manual) and opened up the cabinet, got it set up to run. Still need to oil it first. I had had it serviced about 9 years ago, haven't sewed on it since. They redid all the electric.
Here's the kicker. I don't understand it. My S/N is AC746635, right in the middle of a run of 1929 66's it says according to the Singer website. Note in the last picture... that the last 2 digits of the SN are strange - they are not cut into the brass as deeply - very noticable. Why would that be. Almost looks like the last two digits were stamped into the brass by hand.
So the manual and the S/N both say, 66 BUT... there's no up/down lever with markings for the backtack/stitch length. Instead there's a big honking screw to adjust. Then I noticed that the bobbin winder affair is a big complicated mesh of gears that rides up by the wheel, and not down further as is on the 66-16. I thought, what??? That's not a 66-16, no matter what the manual says.
So I looked on sandman's site to identify. It looks like the 3/4 99-13... EXCEPT... it's got the 66-16 face plate (both flat and rounded, swirlies). Both machines (and mine) have the foot attachment screw on the side. And the D needle plate. I measured from the edge of the needle, along the bed, to the most inward edge of the column - it's 8" exactly, Full bed size is 14.5" x 7"deep (not including the black plate that fills in where (I guess) a treadle belt could be used... So that tends to be a full size bed - I think. Looks like a pristine Filligree pattern. See the pictures...
What the heck have I got here???? Some sort of weird hybrid? Thanks for the help!
sorry for the blurry pic - see screw and bobbin deal
[ATTACH=CONFIG]168174[/ATTACH]
Over all picture... there is a belt on the wheel
[ATTACH=CONFIG]168175[/ATTACH]
01-25-2011, 07:28 PM
#8858
Senior Member
Join Date: Mar 2010
Location: Livingston, MT
Posts: 427
Originally Posted by Lostn51
Originally Posted by purplefiend
Originally Posted by kwendt
Originally Posted by irishrose
so the 310 it is.
I had to buy Singer needles. My Schmetz seemed to have too thick a shank to fit the opening.
I had to buy Singer needles. My Schmetz seemed to have too thick a shank to fit the opening.
INTEReStING. So the Schmetz don't quite fit the 301. Well... that's good to know. I'm hoping to get a 301 in the cabinet, so that I can come and 'go' too. I just need something to transport her in. Like a case. May check out one of those soft side, cheapo rolling things like at Joannes. And sew up a set of fleece 'bags' for the contoller/footpedal, the attachments and a machine bag... to put it all in before stowing in the roll-e, poll-e.
Thanks for the tip!
Billy
Marie M.
01-25-2011, 07:36 PM
#8859
Super Member
Join Date: Sep 2010
Location: London, Ontario, Canada
Posts: 1,326
Ok, i have to confess. I am a turncoat. Bought a green grasshopper ELNA on eBay....... do you still love me?
01-25-2011, 07:43 PM
#8860
Senior Member
Join Date: Dec 2010
Location: Coastal Florida
Posts: 946
Originally Posted by tjradj
Ok, i have to confess. I am a turncoat. Bought a green grasshopper ELNA on eBay....... do you still love me?
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