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Thread: Vintage Sewing Machine Shop.....Come on in and sit a spell

  1. #40901
    Super Member SteveH's Avatar
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    I can make side plates if people want. no biggie. Glad to help.

    I am not trying to make it sound trivial, but I have a "stomp shear" with a graduated backstop. so I can cut very accurate strips, then turn them 90 deg and set for length. I do 16ga steel on a regular basis, so it has the umph.

    I have a bench punch that can do holes up to 1.25"dia (for the ones with a"bite:" out of them.

    I have a 2"x36" professional grade vertical belt sander with a backstop for making the bevels.

    It only takes me about 30 minutes to make a pair of "regular rectangular" slides.

    I would make them a hair large so people could file them to a perfect fit. (unless I have the machine in question, then I can fit it)

    I am making a replacement slide for a W&W8 this weekend. (the one with the bent down end that seems to be missing 1/2 the time) and I am making a pair of slides for Cathy(Mizkaki)

  2. #40902
    Super Member purplefiend's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by BoJangles View Post
    Well someone wanted to hand crank this Japanese 15, but I guess then decided it wasn't worth it! Anyone want a Japanese 15 HC? This is funny - a Japanese 15 with a Chinese HC added! http://sacramento.craigslist.org/for/3706034162.html You know, I might have to consider getting this myself!

    Nancy
    I would remove the hand crank and drop the machine into my Singer cabinet and we would happily treadle the day away. I'd love to have machine that was a different color than the usual brown/tan or black that currently inhabit my sewing room.
    It would be awfully expensive to ship it to Texas though.(big sigh)
    Sharon

  3. #40903
    Senior Member grant15clone's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by SteveH View Post
    I can make side plates if people want. no biggie. Glad to help.

    I am not trying to make it sound trivial, but I have a "stomp shear" with a graduated backstop. so I can cut very accurate strips, then turn them 90 deg and set for length. I do 16ga steel on a regular basis, so it has the umph.

    I have a bench punch that can do holes up to 1.25"dia (for the ones with a"bite:" out of them.

    I have a 2"x36" professional grade vertical belt sander with a backstop for making the bevels.

    It only takes me about 30 minutes to make a pair of "regular rectangular" slides.

    I would make them a hair large so people could file them to a perfect fit. (unless I have the machine in question, then I can fit it)

    I am making a replacement slide for a W&W8 this weekend. (the one with the bent down end that seems to be missing 1/2 the time) and I am making a pair of slides for Cathy(Mizkaki)
    Steve, I mentioned this a few days ago. I am glad you picked this up. I think I have one or two that could use one. I will have to check. Can you do them in Aluminum too, so they can be polished?
    ~G~

  4. #40904
    Super Member jlhmnj's Avatar
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    Steve-
    The reproduction slide plates I've ordered are expensive and fit poorly. The Singer 66/99 plate is terrible and I had to peen the edge so it would fit and even then it's still very prone to coming off. Nothing is made for a 128 without it being a 1/2" too long, I've looked everywhere there all for the 127. I've given up on them and order used parts IF available. Great service making difficult to find plates.

    Jon


    Quote Originally Posted by SteveH View Post
    I can make side plates if people want. no biggie. Glad to help.

    I am not trying to make it sound trivial, but I have a "stomp shear" with a graduated backstop. so I can cut very accurate strips, then turn them 90 deg and set for length. I do 16ga steel on a regular basis, so it has the umph.

    I have a bench punch that can do holes up to 1.25"dia (for the ones with a"bite:" out of them.

    I have a 2"x36" professional grade vertical belt sander with a backstop for making the bevels.

    It only takes me about 30 minutes to make a pair of "regular rectangular" slides.

    I would make them a hair large so people could file them to a perfect fit. (unless I have the machine in question, then I can fit it)

    I am making a replacement slide for a W&W8 this weekend. (the one with the bent down end that seems to be missing 1/2 the time) and I am making a pair of slides for Cathy(Mizkaki)

  5. #40905
    Super Member SteveH's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by grant15clone View Post
    Can you do them in Aluminum too, so they can be polished?~G~
    I have cut mild steel, tool steel, aluminum, brass, copper, cardboard, card stock, and some heavy paper on the shear so far. (gotta love old tools... this one is from the 50's)

    ANY metal can be polished.

    I made a set of brass ones for my Howe that I polished and am planning to have engraved with the correct info.

  6. #40906
    Super Member SteveH's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by jlhmnj View Post
    Steve- The Singer 66/99 plate is terrible and I had to peen the edge so it would fit and even then it's still very prone to coming off. Nothing is made for a 128 without it being a 1/2" too long, I've looked everywhere there all for the 127. Jon
    Jon,

    I have a 66, a 28 and a 128 to test with. what do you need?

    I am curious what "expensive" is? how much do they usually go for?

    I have no real interest in making money this way, so I'd be more than willing to make them for folks for cost of materials and shipping.

    The biggest challenge with these that I see so far is that they sometimes have a cutout or ground out portion underneath that would have to be accounted for. Not too difficult but if we do not have an original to view, it could get messy.

  7. #40907
    Super Member SteveH's Avatar
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    to keep things a bit cleaner i started a thread for this.

    http://www.quiltingboard.com/showthr...ferrerid=85067

  8. #40908
    Super Member jlhmnj's Avatar
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    [QUOTE=SteveH;5960521]Jon,

    I see sew-classic is having a sale and even added the 128 since the last time I checked. When I needed them they were going for $8-15 each (not too bad) but they were almost unusable, especially the 66/99. I believe I'm in good shape but it's comforting to know who to contact when I need one that is rarely available.

    Jon

    I have a 66, a 28 and a 128 to test with. what do you need?

    I am curious what "expensive" is? how much do they usually go for?

  9. #40909
    Super Member J Miller's Avatar
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    I have purchased several of the 66-99 slide plates from Sew Classic. So far I've not had a bad one. Knock on wood. But they do not look like the originals and wouldn't do for a collector piece. Not that I have any of those.

    I've not purchased any aftermarket slide plates for a shuttle bobbin machine ... yet.

    Joe

  10. #40910
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    Steve,

    If one of my machines is needed for fit testing please let me know.

    Cathy
    Cathy

    "Most sewing machine problems are due to the carbon based unit in the chair in front of the machine"

  11. #40911
    Super Member jlhmnj's Avatar
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    I had four 99's I wanted to fix up to get out of the house and bought four slide plates. For some reason they fit the 66's slighty better than the 99's. On 1 or 2 I swapped plates with the 66's and the other two I had to peen the groove on the underside so they would not constantly fall off the spring when opening. Still wasn't thrilled with any of the four. I learned my lesson and stick with original used parts if possible and would be reluctant to try aftermarket foreign slide plates again. Could have been a bad batch that slipped by QC as the other overseas parts I've gotten have been OK for the price.

    Jon


    Quote Originally Posted by J Miller View Post
    I have purchased several of the 66-99 slide plates from Sew Classic. So far I've not had a bad one. Knock on wood. But they do not look like the originals and wouldn't do for a collector piece. Not that I have any of those.

    I've not purchased any aftermarket slide plates for a shuttle bobbin machine ... yet.

    Joe

  12. #40912
    Super Member SteveH's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by jlhmnj View Post
    I had to peen the groove on the underside so they would not constantly fall off the spring when opening. Jon
    Yikes! Those grooves are in Cast Iron and you are VERY lucky that they did not break when peened.

    A trick I learned from Cathy (Mizkaki) was to give each plate a slight bend along the shortest axis. i.e. imagine the plate on the table in front of you with the long way going towards/away from you. Place a pencil or metal bar under the plate in the middle going from right to left, (perpendicular to the long axis, makes it like a teeter-totter) then press both of the long ends down slightly at the same time. The resulting arc will tighten up most any slide.

    If this was not clear, let me know and I will do a couple photos.

  13. #40913
    Super Member jlhmnj's Avatar
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    I get your meaning. On the 66/99 slide plate the groove is machined (half dovetail) on the underside of the slide plate (what I whacked) and travels mostly on the spring and only guided by the bed.
    Good trick for the VS slide plates, I usually give them a whack on the bottom and file lightly to fit, I'll try bending on the next one.

    Jon

  14. #40914
    Power Poster miriam's Avatar
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    Does bending the slide plate keep them from sliding out all the time?
    NEVER let a sewing machine know you are in a hurry.

  15. #40915
    Super Member J Miller's Avatar
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    Jon,

    One trick I've learned on the 66 / 99s is to remove the slide plate spring, clean the spring and it's pocket, then bend the spring a bit to put more tension on the plate. I've cured a couple loosey goosey ones that way.

    Joe

  16. #40916
    Super Member J Miller's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by miriam View Post
    Does bending the slide plate keep them from sliding out all the time?
    On the shuttle bobbin machines, yes. On the round bobbin machines, I don't know.

    Joe

  17. #40917
    Super Member jlhmnj's Avatar
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    I think a big part of the problem was they grooves weren't machined quite sharp enough to catch the spring. Instead of dovetailed edges they were almost flat and easily slipped off the spring especially near the end of it's travel. Them plates I had were garbage not worth fooling with and I should have returned them. Hopefully mine were the 4 that slipped by QC and others don't have this problem. On to bigger and better things

    Jon

    Quote Originally Posted by J Miller View Post
    Jon,

    One trick I've learned on the 66 / 99s is to remove the slide plate spring, clean the spring and it's pocket, then bend the spring a bit to put more tension on the plate. I've cured a couple loosey goosey ones that way.

    Joe

  18. #40918
    Super Member J Miller's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by jlhmnj View Post
    I think a big part of the problem was they grooves weren't machined quite sharp enough to catch the spring. Instead of dovetailed edges they were almost flat and easily slipped off the spring especially near the end of it's travel. Them plates I had were garbage not worth fooling with and I should have returned them. Hopefully mine were the 4 that slipped by QC and others don't have this problem. On to bigger and better things

    Jon
    Aha! Now I understand. Yes they would have been defected out had I bought them.

    joe

  19. #40919
    Power Poster miriam's Avatar
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    NEVER let a sewing machine know you are in a hurry.

  20. #40920
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    Quote Originally Posted by miriam View Post
    I would be if it a the foot plate peddle was not missing. Might be hard to find one that fits the irons.
    Glenn W. Cleveland

  21. #40921
    Super Member SteveH's Avatar
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    If I was not near my limit, i would buy that just to have a later Howe for the collection...

  22. #40922
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    I really want it, but too far away. The missing foot peddle might be grounds for reducing the price, and perhaps someone can adapt one.

  23. #40923
    Power Poster miriam's Avatar
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    I'm thinking about it... I'm catch and release though... The foot thing makes me think less $$ for it, too. Does it have bobbins bobbin cases? What should I look at?
    NEVER let a sewing machine know you are in a hurry.

  24. #40924
    Super Member Glenn's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by miriam View Post
    I'm thinking about it... I'm catch and release though... The foot thing makes me think less $$ for it, too. Does it have bobbins bobbin cases? What should I look at?
    It is a vibrating shuttle with long bobbin so be sure the machine as a shuttle and at least one bobbin.
    Glenn W. Cleveland

  25. #40925
    Power Poster miriam's Avatar
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    NEVER let a sewing machine know you are in a hurry.

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